Mumbai, India - January 9-10, 2018

Reading about India a few months ago, we were forewarned that we were about to embark on a place that registers with all senses. What an understatement! The smells! The close contact with many, many other human beings, the dogs lying in the streets and plazas, the sounds - people talking loudly and car and motorbike horns sounding almost constantly, some beeping incessantly; some sounding long, impatient blasts for many seconds! And the sights! Dusty, filthy urban streets, crowded with people, motorbikes, taxis and buses. And sidewalks filled with stalls selling everything from personal toiletries to cheap but glittery souvenir items. The colors are amazing! Brilliantly colored saris, satin beaded bags in purple, red and indigo! And poverty! While not overrun with beggars, we occasionally were taped on the arm by a young mother with child or simply a dirty brown child with fingers at the mouth, gesturing their need for money to buy food. Slums, slums and more slums; sometimes juxtaposed to beautiful new hotels or beautiful historic buildings. Among this wild mix are tourists from all corners of the world following guides holding large round disks that distinguish tour groups from one another. It was overwhelming. Honestly, we do not realize what quiet lives we lead.

One of the first things we noticed when we arrived in the Middle East was the hazy skies. We assumed it was merely a weather condition of the day or the time of year. But as we traveled deeper and deeper into the Arabian Gulf toward the Indian Ocean the haze became more and more thick. The sea and sky became the same color, camouflaging the horizon. When we arrived in Mumbai the haze was like a dense fog obscuring the ghost-like skyline. Yes, some of the hazed is a natural weather condition but its primary cause is smog! This land is layered with smog of the deepest consistency I have ever seen. It burns sensitive eyes and makes the throat scratchy.

We traveled in a comfortable bus and inched our way through the city. Tiny taxis drive only inches from each other and virtually taunt buses and motorbikes to get in their way. People walk the sidewalks and can be seen walking in the streets too - seems everyone is going somewhere in a hurry but no one can travel quickly. We passed significant landmarks like Mumbai's Victoria Station, still an amazing impressive building today and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The architect who designed Vic Station also designed the grand Post Office which happens to be the largest building built by the British in India. City Hall was pointed out, as well as several universities and schools, the aquarium, and the beach. The fastest way to cross town is the public train which too is crowded and lacks air conditioning but is amazingly efficient. We boarded the public train for a ride to the largest open area public laundry system, the Dhobi Ghat (built by the British) and watched the dhobi ghat men pound laundry on the stone and hang tons of it on lines for open-air drying. Before the train ride, we passed through the area of Mumbai where hundreds of men, the dabba wallahs, organize and deliver by bike, cart or simply stacked on their shoulders thousands of individualized, hot boxed lunches cooked by restaurants and homes to office workers and to people in their homes who might not have cooking facilities. It is an amazing study in efficiency and insanity.

On the train we got a firsthand look at how this public transportation system accommodates the mass of people who use its services especially at the rush hours. The doors stay open whether the train is moving or not so that those who can jump on at the last minute can hang on at the door. Inside, hand grips hang from the ceiling everywhere and more hand rails line each seat so that all who sit or stand have a bit of stability.

We visited Gandhi's museum where he worked from 1917 to 1934. I took photos of some of his letters, and some representations of some of his most renowned quotes. It occurred to me that we could use another influential leader like Gandhi once again right now.

As we made our way to The Gateway to India, we drove along the boulevard known as the Queen's Necklace - named such because of the glittering red, orange and green lights the traffic lights show at night along the semi-circular drive along the beach. The Gateway to India monument sits on a large plaza on the waterfront. Possibly styled after The Arc de Triomphe or the Brandenburg Gate, the Gateway to India was completed by the British in 1924 to commemorate a royal visit by King George V and Queen Mary in 1911. Interestingly, when Great Britain's last troops left India in 1948, they exited, marching through this gate. Apparently everyone who visits Mumbai spend time at this spot.

On our second day in Mumbai we garnered our courage and simply hired a taxi. Just as our driver said, we were lucky to have found him. For a total of $40 he took us to the Crawford's Market, a labyrinth of magnificent, crowded alleys offering fruit, vegetables, nuts, dried dates and figs and jars and jars of spices. We bought only a half kilo of cashews. The vendors were pleasant and not obtrusive at all and they welcomed our taking pictures of their beautiful wares.

Next we wanted to see the Hanging Gardens, a nice botanical garden that sits at the top of Malabar Hill. I love seeing growing things and particularly love seeing how different cities present their best flora. The best thing we saw were groups of preschoolers with their teachers playing games like duck-duck goose. The kids all waved at us. We waved and blew them kisses.

Finally, our driver took us to the colorful, almost animated Giant Temple and to the street market where we shopped for lovely beaded satin gifts. Our driver helped us negotiate to get the best price.

This time last night after our visit to Goa on Monday, and after our first day in Mumbai, we were thinking we had seen enough of India. We found it unnerving, exhausting and a chore to endure. After today's visit, however, I find I am warming to its charm. And despite of its poverty, its filth, its dilapidation, and its crowds, somehow it is charming. Most of all Stan and I like the warm, happy-hearted people here.

I just perused all our photos of Mumbai. I wish I could post all of them. I think they are amazing.