Night location: Dubrovnik (AV and DV)

A glorious morning in Dubrovnik! After breakfast we all visited the St Saviour Church followed by the Franciscan Monastery Cloister. The cloister was filled with beautiful morning light and was a lovely place to sit and reflect. Attached to the cloister was a small museum that held religious items, ancient music books and archaic medical equipment. Inside was also more evidence of the war. Apparently the Serbians particularly targeted the monastery as it was a significant place of pride for the Croats.
Walking back onto the Stradun (the main thoroughfare leading to the clock tower), we were immediately overwhelmed by the amount of large tour groups that had evidently been deposited in town from their cruise boat with a paddle leading guide. There seemed to be no escape from the hoards in spite of our efforts!

David and Gareth visited the War Photo Gallery which showcased photography of conflicts from around the world. The current displays were of the post September 11 conflicts in the Middle East and the war in the former Yugoslavia.

After some shopping and refreshments Amber and David sat under the clock tower while the others visited the Sponza Palace Historic Archives. Inside were ancient Papal archives as well as a very moving memorial of photos of those who died defending Dubrovnik in the war against the Serbians.

Following a light lunch Mum, Dad, Gemma and Gareth set off to collect their hire car. While Amber and David are staying two additional nights in Dubrovnik, the others have elected to tour up the Croatian Coast and into Slovenia before reuniting in Zagreb.

One of the main things that Amber wanted to do while in Dubrovnik was to go out in or on the Adriatic Sea. Due to the hazardous conditions of entering the sea via a rock shelf ladder for a swim, she decided a boat tour would be more enjoyable. David did a bit of research and got us on a glass bottom boat with only two other people and we set off for a 45 minute joy ride. The view of Dubrovnik from the water was breathtaking as the walls loomed high above the rocky cliffs. The clarity of the water is also astounding and through the glass bottom we could clearly see the rocks and small fish far below.

Following our tour we went to a bar for drinks that you accessed through an unsignposted doorway at the base of the wall. After a few steps we were through to the water side of the wall and enjoyed some drinks at a lovely table perched on a rocky platform. We relaxed here for some time enjoying the beautiful view with the ramparts at our backs and the sea stretching out in front of us.

Upon reflection we have decided that Dubrovnik is a town that is beautiful to look at but seems to have lost a bit of its soul to the onset of tourism. That being said, it is a far nicer place to wander through in the late afternoon and evening. To conclude our day we enjoyed a sensational meal sitting on a terrace above street level.

Night location: Split (HH, AH, GH and GC)

Leaving Amber and David reclining on their bed, Mum, Dad, Gemma and Gareth made their precipitous descent onto the concourse that led towards the southern town gate, and began the deceptively strenuous climb (previously traversed luggage-free) that was made particularly difficult for Gareth who was lugging over 40kg of baggage.

Upon arriving at the Hertz establishment, the man had left for lunch (or was out on an emergency call) and he took 30 minutes to return and deliver us our new vehicle, which at this stage remains nameless. Departing Dubrovnik in our very basic Skoda, we followed the magnificent coast line of Croatia toward Split.

Once again the sea was the bluest blue, and there were multiple islands clearly visible from the car, the seascape reminding us of a Mediterranean version of the Scottish Highlands with barren rocky outcrops towering over the water.

Settling into our drive, we were expecting to enjoy a selection of sweets such as chocolate-coated nuts, liquorice all-sorts and pythons purchased from the "Pirates Cove" in Dubrovnik, but unfortunately we had all been ensnared in a tourist trap. Very few of the treats were satisfying. Some, in the words of Gemma, were 'ghastly'. Worse still, each couple at the weighing counter had spent roughly $20!

In spite of this we enjoyed the drive between the coast and the mountains, and were particularly excited by a 7.5km double border crossing that was particularly meaningful for three of us. Gareth informed us that it didn't count unless we touched the earth, and such was Mum's urgency to put her feet upon the soil that she tried to direct us off into the rough multiple times. Luckily a service station was spotted, and Bosnia is now included on everyone's country lists.

Gemma continued to be Claudio's interpreter and together they brought us along the motorway down into Split and to the outskirts of the Old Town. We were met by a representative from our accommodation at the parking station and were led along a magnificent and lengthy promenade beside the harbour. Before us rose the walls and towers of the Old Town which began to glow as the sun set over Diocletian's Palace (built in the 4th century).

Our guide led us through the Iron gate - one of the four entry gates into the Old Town - and we arrived at our accommodation. Our tastefully appointed rooms were located inside the inner walls, significant portions of which had been retained, and our hosts were extremely helpful.

Dad completed some research and in due course led us through winding alley ways within the Old Town towards a recommended restaurant. Unfortunately, there were some drawbacks: it was about 10 degrees with a howling wind and there was only outdoor seating! Shivering in an otherwise lovely patio, Gemma and Mum ordered hot chocolate which somehow became white chocolate, which Gemma did not enjoy. That being said, the food was excellent overall and once finished we went on a search for real hot chocolate. Twenty-five minutes later, having been rebuffed at a chocolate cafe, we resorted to finding a supermarket to make our own. It wasn't to be our night since after getting lost in the UNESCO listed supermarket there were two shelves of instant coffee but no chocolate. Admitting defeat on the hot chocolate front, Gareth discovered chocolate Mentos as a surprise dessert instead. We headed back to our rooms which were well heated and prepared for our next driving day to Rovinj.