I love Japan.

If I have to name three reasons, it would have to be the people, the people and the people.

I thought that people would be reserved, locked into lives bound by customs and rules that had to be followed, leaving little room for fun, harmony and, well, life. After three months here, I feel that many people are reserved and a little private. But all it takes to tear down that social wall is a warm smile and some respect for the Japanese culture. Once the wall is gone, I've found the Japanese to be sociable, fun, kind, warm people who are not afraid to make jokes about themselves and their culture. If I was in a bar or a hostel, I'd almost always end up having a nice and fun chat. Sometimes I'd start it, sometimes others. Very rarely was it difficult to push it forward in the way that it probably would in Sweden. And there would almost always be a lot of laughs. Even with guys. Japanese men don't seem to have to prove themselves masculine all the time.

Some say that it's easy to get an impression of kindness because they are so interested in foreigners, but that when you see beyond that the kindness isn't real. Personally I think this is rubbish. Sure, I've met some people who I felt were mainly interested in me because I was a foreigner, and some who I felt were kind mainly because they felt it was their duty. But that's not the majority. For example, the receptionist at a hotel in Tanabe who found out about surfing on Shikoku for us and called up to book a place there and booked Sven into a Shiatsu massage and then drove him there and waited while he got the massage. We stayed in his hotel so I guess he would feel inclined to give us good service, but this? And he did it with genuine warmth. Shihori, who owns that surf shop on Shikoku, who drove me and Sven around not only to beaches but also to lunch and sights, who looked after me when I started getting sick, who spent a whole day with me in the hospital translating, and who then came to visit almost every day despite having a lot to do at the surf shop. Yachan, Shihori's friend who sent gingerbread cookies and a book to me in the hospital. Jinmiei, the Sapporo guest house owner who invited me into his family birthday party and who offered me food every night if he cooked while I was in the hostel common room. Lucien, who brought me into his group of friends for a sensational party night in Sapporo. Rie, who called my Swedish cell phone from Japan when I was in the hospital to cheer me up and keep me company. Ume-san, who took time out of his gallery exhibition to take me and my sister to lunch and then show us his other exhibition and an atomic bomb memorial. All the people who have invited me in to join their group of friends at bars, restaurants and cafes. All the people whom I have shared fun chats with on trains, buses, stations, parks, in restaurants, bars, hotels. I have travelled alone but I have only felt alone a handful of times. Jiho and his mother, who opened their home and their hearts to guests at their Zen temple. The bar staff in Uchiko who invited us to join their karaoke party, and their friend Toshi who picked us up when that bar closed, brought us to his bar, opened it up, and then partied with us all night. Yuriko, who spoilt me completely with onsen and fantastic food and who shared a very personal story. And the countless others who have helped, guided and been patient with questions and misunderstandings to a degree that far exceeds anything I've seen in all my travels. Every day I have met people who through words or actions have put a smile on my lips. Even here in Tokyo. I have tried to put a smile on their lips too and hope that I have been able to spread a little warmth in return.

If I'm allowed to give three more reasons for my love of Japan, first it would be that everything is so simple here. Crime isn't worth worrying about. You won't get mugged, women can walk safely alone at night almost everywhere, everything works and runs on time, people are honest and trustworthy. Not once have I been ripped off or felt unsafe. Not once. The only bother could be language. But allow plenty of time, be patient, and learn just a few key words and it's really not such a problem at all.

Second it would be the sights. I hope that my photos have conveyed the amazing range of things to see and do here. Where people live, they live densely, but there is also so much space. 70 % of Japan is green mountains. It is easy to get out of the cities to go hiking or skiing. And it gets wild pretty fast once you leave civilization behind. The temples and historical buildings are diverse and jawdroppingly impressive. The city lights are like nothing I've seen before. And in a country this different from my home, I have loved just interacting with and looking at people and finding all the fascinating differences. I'll give an example: Denis and Marta told about the "fokubukuros". Stores sell these bags filled with goods during the sales. What's special about the fokubukuros is that they don't say what's in them! It's always a bargain but you never know exactly what it is. Clothes stores do this, kitchen stores do, and even coffee shops. Sometimes they tell you a little about the contents, sometimes just "clothes". I'm not sure I'd be interested in taking the risk of buying a bag of unknown contents and would never have thought that the Japanese of all people would!

Finally I have to mention the food. To not do so would be a crime. I have not had a single bad Japanese meal here. One or two Western ones (the omelette that was supposed to be a pancake leaps to mind). If I had to think of the ten best meals I've ever had, at least seven or eight would be from this autumn. And I haven't gone for expensive restaurants. And it's healthy food. I've eaten well and lost seven kilos. On this, my last day, I had grilled eel for lunch in a small shack under the railroad tracks in Ueno. It was fantastic. And tonight I did the Lost in Translation thing. I went to the Park Hyatt and its 52nd floor bar with stunning views. Kobe beef for my last dinner in Japan. The best beef I've ever had. The taste was full, rich, deep and lasting. Almost a religious experience. And then there's the sashimi, the squid with wasabi, the curry udon... I could have written a blog just about the food.

It is now 02.06. My plane back leaves at noon tomorrow. I could sleep but then the trip would be over. Think I'll take a stroll.

It'll be great to see friends and family again. But please, don't ask me if I am happy to be back.