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I woke up feeling a little bit dusty this morning after my pisco sours and wine last night but there's no rest for the wicked as today I had booked a full day horseriding along the north coast of the island. This area is only accessible on foot or horseback as there are no roads.
My guide picked me up and by 10am we were setting off from his property just outside Hanga Roa. The riding was great, I was on the same horse as before and the scenery and weather were stunning. Green fields rolling down to meet craggy rock cliffs and the blue pacific ocean below.
The first archaeological site we came to was some fallen moai and an Ahu, with remnants of boat shaped houses and chicken houses. Here we made our way to the ocean, tied the horses up and scrambled down some rocks as this is where we would fish for our lunch. I was a bit nervous at first as my guide bounded across the rocks to the waters edge. The pacific seemed quite tranquil and was only splashing a little on the rocks but images of freak waves flashed through my mind. I let my guide set up and then scrambled over to join him. The water was so clear we could see the fish swimming. We used handlines with chicken for bait and threw bits of bread in to get the fish interested. I caught about three and my guide caught numerous! Between us there must have been over twenty! I thought we would stop when we had enough for lunch but my guide said "there's fish, so we fish". I thought we were going to be there all day as they just kept coming. Definitely more successful then some of the fishing I've done off the rocks in Aus.
The guide stuffed the fish into his saddlebag and we continued riding. We stopped at a cave further along the coast and inside the ceiling was covered with petroglyphs, faces of the make make god. There were also large petroglyphs of turtles on the rocks near the cave.
After another hour or so of riding, I saw a lone palm tree ahead and knew we must be nearing Anakena beach, our stop for lunch. We tied the horses by the water and my guide prepared the fish for cooking. His friend who runs a tour company was there with a group of tourists and we joined them for lunch. They cooked the fish by laying them on some rocks over a fire. There happened to be a traditional dance show on at the same time. It reminded me a little of some of the Maori dances I saw in New Zealand. Very scantily clad men and women covered in feathers, tattoos and head dresses - you can tell they are very proud of their culture.
After a late lunch we started our return journey on the horses across the centre of the island. My guide had replaced the fish in his saddlebag with cans of beer and swigged these as we cantered along. I knew all along he was a bit eccentric but he seemed to get more so with a few beers in him and harder to understand. It made for an interesting journey home.
I was exhausted by the time he dropped me back at the hostel at 7pm but it had been a great day. I'd seen a part of the island that not many people see, fished for my lunch and seen a traditional dance, probably an average day for most Rapanui but a special day for me.
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