The Maharajas of Rajasthan had many forts and palaces to protect their areas of domination. And taking a look at India's turbulent and violent past it is easy to understand why. Within Rajasthan culture there were many strict codes of behaviour that needed to be observed at all times. Any slight at any level of society, and it was war!North of Udaipur, in the mountains that separate this green wooded part of Rajasthan with the drier plains to the north, is a fort of magnificence. It truly is spectacular. You cannot fully comprehend the size of the fort until you climb right to the very top of the mountain upon which is the small palace. From the highest balcony, far above the ramparts you look down onto the grounds within the fort walls and the plains to the north. It is truly formidable.Our driver, Mr Singh, called it India's own Great Wall after China's. It is easy to understand why. It looks for the most part like the Great Wall of China in almost every respect; height, width, design and location. The fort walls are 36km long and snake in and out of valleys and over mountains tops and through the forests. It was to here that retreating Maharajas and their armies would come as a last stand. In all its history it has only been taken once; and only for two days at that!Because it is so out of the way, it is rarely visited and has a quiet reverend feel to it. Like an old man sitting on the veranda looking out in his memories and wallowing in them and we had it to ourselves…..…..for about 45 minutes! Mr Singh was anxious that we get to Ranakpur about 40km in time for lunch. I thought that the way he drove, we would be there long before 1230! Roads are not wide in rural India, and road users tend to use their horns as an indicator of "watch out, here I come!" The same Mumbai road rules we invented applied out here. The only difference was that cows and buffaloes did not bother getting out the way. If you are considered holy, and you know that you are holy, and you know that the drivers know that you are holy, would you bother getting out the way? No. Have you seen the damage that a station piece of live beef can do to a speedy vehicle and its occupants? Well, I think that these animals knew all these things deep down inside and couldn't be bothered. These things did not bother Mr Singh. It was pedal to the metal all the way! We only slowed down a little when we were heading down the mountain passes. I reasoned it was because any faster and we would have hit the outside corner and damaged the car. One thing the Indians are absolutely loathed to do, is part with their cash for anything but an absolute emergency. Unnecessary car damage was not necessary, so we slowed down enough to get round the corners unscathed. All the time, Mr Singh was telling stories and laughing uproaringly and slapping my thigh! Hah-bloody-hah. Just watch the road! And stop pounding my thigh! Jainism is an offshoot of Hinduism and has certain beliefs. One of which is that you cannot have any lunch or food after 1230. Hence, Mr Singh wanted to get us there before close of play. Ranakpur is the largest and most impressive Jain temple in all of India. The main complex is very much Angkor Wat, yet it is made from white marble. The temples themselves are exquisitely carved and the forest of 1440 pillars are all individually so. So much so, that no one is alike (Just a question - how do they know this? Did some poor bod have to go around and check that this was true?). With a setting in a steep sided wooded valley, it is even more impressive! The dedication of an army of devoted craftsmen is easy to see. The artwork and carvings are definitely not slip-slap, dish dash!Outside it was very hot, but inside it was quiet and cool despite the small groups of devotees coming to pray and worship here. The sunlight seems to be absorbed up the marble and radiated back into the temple complex. The effect is one of soft illumination seeming to come from right inside the pillars and walls. What was also impressive is that the complex had a resto where you paid a very nominal 20Rs for an all you can eat, and very delicious vegetarian meal! The temple helps just keep bringing food around and until you have had enough. For 60Rs, the three of us ate very well. Mr Singh needed to eat well because his belly needed all the help it could get! We couldn't bear to have Mr Singh wait for us until the bus came at 1530 and he offered to put us on it. I am not sure that we can make small talk stretch for another two hours anyway. With money in his hand, he was gone quick as lightening. I fancied I heard a rumble of thunder coming down the valley where the road was. Obviously Mr Singh had broken the sound barrier in his effort to get back!