"Jaisalmer". Somebody was shaking my foot.

"Huh?" Shaking the sleep from my head and very aware of being on an Indian night train, I was awake instantly.

"Jaisalmer. Jaisalmer".

"Thanks." A quick check to make sure that everything was in the same place it was 5 hours ago when I eventually drifted off to train motion induced sleep. If any b****** managed to get our kit, which was wedged under the bottom berth out unnoticed during the night, then he deserved it! We had made it tough for even ourselves to get them out!

0530 in Jaisalmer and the eastern sky is just a dusty pink heralding the anticipated arrival of the sun. Even at this time of day, it was warm and the breeze was already beginning to lose a little of its coolness. Everybody has heard the stories of train station touts who harass, hound, irritate, lie and do anything possible, short of abducting you, to go with them to a suitable place.

I was very surprised to see that the sign touting touts were all neatly behind a line in the parking lot. This is very strange and completely unusual! A quick sweep of the area and there are the policemen keeping an eye on things. Later that afternoon, back at the station when we were back to book some tickets, we noticed the usual train station carnage! Not a policeman in sight and situation normal then!

Tourist numbers in India, we are told, are down to 20% of last year. Completely understandable when you read that India and its major cities have been targeted for bombing by the Indian Mujahedeen. Nothing drives people away than the threat of indiscriminate bombings. Added to the fall in numbers is the amount of Tripadvisor and Hostelworld and Lonely Planet websites and forums that allow travellers to share info AND also book services and accommodation! And the more astute places are getting themselves organized for business.

Ensuring that the place you are staying at knows that you are coming and picks you up to beat the touts is a real pleasure. Hard bargaining is not one of the first things I think about at 0530!