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The border was not far from our crummy hotel but the tuk tuk driver didn't take us directly there. Instead he followed signs for "visa centre" which was a building 300m from border control. It was a convincing place with a nice office but we had read online about various scams so weren't fooled. It amazes me how people get away with the scams they do around here.
The crossing was fine and there were no problems getting into Cambodia. On the other side there was a a free shuttle bus to a taxi park and then from there a 4 hour journey to Siem Reap. At the shuttle bus we met a guy that organised us a taxi (at a good price, he didn't con us!) and showed us a hotel in Siem Reap that we could stay at. It looked really nice on the leaflet and it was well priced. We booked that through him as he said it would be cheaper and he even offered us a free ladyboy (we declined, honest!).
After arriving in Siem Reap the taxi driver dropped us somewhere and we got in a different car, this was the taxi operators friend. He drove is to our hotel. Ah. Not the one we expected, nor did it have a nice restaurant or swimming pool. The price was too good to be true! But it still had air con and it was clean, so we didn't complain too much.
Mr Lew offered to take us too the lake that afternoon to see the floating village and sunset. He picked us up at four, after we had slept, and drove us too get the boat.
It was just us 3 on that boat and we had a great time. Our guide was funny, knowledgeable and a bit of a lad. The lake is more of an ocean even in dry season, you couldn't see to the other side. During dry season it is 2,000 sqkm but during rainy season it rises and grows to 12,000 sqkm. It was also only half a meter deep when we went out but during rainy season it gets 20x that.
We went around the village which was an unforgettable sight and experience. It had everything; floating supermarket, floating school, floating pig farm, catfish farm and even a floating crocodile farm! Mad!
The school doubled up as an orphanage as there are so many children in the village that have not got their parents. We offered to buy them some food from the supermarket as their main food source was from tourists. When we gave our noodles to the orphanage we had a look around at the conditions they live in and the food they eat. We tried some of their food which was disgusting and then only after trying it did we find out it was snake fish. Blurgh!
Our driver, being the lad he was, bought us all beer and we headed over to the crocodile farm to chill out and watch the sunset with the locals. What a laugh!
About an hour later we headed back up the river, our guide telling a bit about the history of Cambodia which was surprisingly, full of bloodshed and genocide.
The next day we got up at 4 to head over to Angkor Wat and watch the sunrise over the temples. Mr Lew organised us a tuk tuk for the morning to take us there and around. The temples are like nothing I've ever seen before, massive ancient buildings with the most amazing attention to detail. To think it was all built by hand too! Our tuk tuk driver took us to the temple that was featured in Tomb Raider the film too. The number of temples and the size of them meant it would take about 2 weeks to explore them all but we felt that after seeing 5 we had seen as much as we needed too.
That afternoon after catching up on sleep Mr Lew turned up at our hotel and wanted paying. We expected this but the amount he wanted was extortionate. $40 dollars EACH for a short taxi ride to the lake (we paid for the boat when we were there) and a tuk tuk ride to the temples (normally $20 in total). Arguing got us nowhere and in the end we had to pay. We now have another name for him.
We were pretty angry at this so went out and got drunk, turns out clubbing in Cambodia is awesome.
The next day we had a minibus booked for the journey between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Now the roads here are nothing more that a dirt track through small villages and farms but our driver clearly wanted to get there quick and was constantly doing 60mph over ground most people wouldn't even think of driving on at all. It was not the most comfortable six hours of my life in anyway, shape or form but we made it. Phew.
The next day we didn't have a plan but after being persuaded by a tuk tuk driver we visited a shooting range and shot ak47s, immemse power and bloody loud! Then we went tp the killing fields of Phnom Penh, it is quite an emotional experience which none of us could understamd the reasoning of. Look up Khmer rouge if you want to find out more. The particular sight we visited had been the grave of over 17000 people, this was in 1979. You walk through the peiceful garden but look down and there are bones and rags of those who died, just laying In the dirt. The people were not shot but bludgeoned to death as it was cheaper. If you looked at the skulls you could determine how they were killed, often having axe marks or having shattered bone from bamboo and metal sticks.
Now we are travelling by bus to Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam :) more adventure to follow!
- comments
Nick Muggridge Great blog entry Sam; gives a real feel for your adventure together, not to mention the easy traps set for you. Thx.