Hello and greetings from India!

Am having a great time here in Delhi. Arrived midnight on 15th October, and have been staying with a family since then, besides a 3 day tour.

First the family, they are awesome! So hospitable, taken me around loads, organised tours, and most importantly fed me! Actually, you'll be impressed to know i taught Anku (the mum) how to make pasta, and we cooked for her family, and neighbours yesterday! was good! Gaurav is the dad, and they have a 2 year old Arshiya and 5 year old Diya. They along with their cousins who live upstairs call me 'didi' ('sister' in Hindi). Gotta admit am struggling with language a bit, when all i know is 'tikh hai' ('ok'), so i seem to be agreeing to everything!!

Spent Diwali here too, lots of fireworks, rangoli patterns, mehendi (henna) and colourful clothing. Visited a gurdwara for the first time too (sikh temple) as the family are hindu punjabi.

Tour i went on was through Jaipur in Rajasthan and where the Taj Mahal is. Jaipur (called 'Pink City') because all the buildings are pinkish in colour is beautiful, friendly people, etc. whereas agra is dirty, people rude, and smells real bad! The Taj Mahal (built be a Muslim king in memory of his wife) is a world away from the rest of the city. Was supposed to go on the tour with 2 neighbours but daughter fell ill so they couldn't come.- Meant i was with a driver who asked me 'sex free in Engaland?' and told me i should be married at my age (!!)'. the cheek of it, he was a bachelor at about 35!! Also meant i ate alone , but it was ok! My t-shirt from Steve, which reads 'i am hungry' in English, Hindi, Spanish and Portuguese created a lot of interest everywhere i went, especially from a group of Americans!! Thanks Steve!

Now some shockers!

• Stayed in a 3 1/2 * hotel in Jaipur for 24 pound incl breakfast! (This is 2006 ruppees reduced by bargaining from 4999 rupees!!)
• Cows, peacocks, camels, horses roam around the streets alongside the cars, autos (3-wheeler taxis - same as the tuk tuks in sri lanka!), people (yes, in the middle of roundabouts!!), people on motorbikes (usually see between 2 and 4 people on a motorbike at any one time! no joke ), single decker buses with people sitting, and double that mount standing, and  people riding bikes with a seat at the back as a taxi - seen up to 3 people on one bike at anyone time, with only one person cyling to make it run. its really sad. The roads are awful here, and i hear the test is to 'drive there and back while i watch'! (Unless you have the money to bribe!)
• Food is fab, loads of variety, something for everyone.
• Shower out of a bucket, and carry toilet paper!!

Next update soon! Take care, missing you all loads! xxx

James, even more determined to read Shantaram now!

UPDATE - Have now bought Shantaram for about 6 pounds in paperback, apparently they have now been discontinued...