Next stop was Cambodia's capital Phnom Penh, where the real atrocities of Pol Pot's regime become apparant. We visited the chilling S21 prison, a converted school(!) where Pol Pot's cadres tortured "dissidents". Most of these cadres were brainwashed children and teenagers, and they often reported and tortured members of their own family. During the 4 year regime 20,000 people were tortured in this prison before being taken to the killing fields of Phnom Penh - the most famous. However S21 is one of hundreds of torture cells littered throughout the country, and it follows that there are hundreds of killing fields. The Phnom Penh site was truly horrifying and had a memorial showcasing the excavated skulls of 9000 victims.

While in the city we stayed lakeside, in a hostel which was $2.50 a night and hotter than the sun. Well you get what you pay for! It was an extremely dodgy place and there was a hell of a lot of weed being smoked - most of it sold behind the bar. There were a few African gangsters knocking about, most of whom had resided there for several months. One of the staff persistantly asked us when we wanted to buy some weed as well as when we wanted to shoot a cow with a grenade launcher. Tuk-tuk drivers were as relentless as ever. "You wanna tuk-tuk?" No. "You wanna buy something?" How unspecific is that! "You want some boom boom?". No. "You want some pot, coke, opium, herion, yaba". Novelty at first, tiresome by the end.

We managed to get out of drug alley and stumbled upon the French colonial heart of town where we mingled with families playing games and enjoying Cambodian delicacies. By the way Khmer food is amazing and ranks as our best yet - but the deep fried tarantula didn't go down too well! The five of us spent our last evening down this relaxing and civilised end of Phnom Penh, and reflected on our manic week. We all had a blast in this country despite it being extremely screwed up, dodgy, corrupt and downright dangerous. Some people can't handle the sights, smells and realities of Cambodia. But me and JF found that these things, along with its warm people added to the charm, and it was a real travel experience going there.

Rob and JF