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Blog 8
Cambodia
It's the 1st of July and we have arrived in Cambodia, first stop the capital city phenom penh. The bus journey from Ho Chi Min took 6 hours with a lengthy stop in immigration to be granted a visa into the country. Despite being an adjacent country to Vietnam within the first half hour we could see the differences. It was the end of the working day and hundreds of locals were heading into the city piling into the open back trucks, it was quite a sight. We are still unsure what type of work they had been doing or even if it was work. As we travelled further into the city it began to resemble India, piles of rubbish, children running the streets, the smells and the undeveloped chaos. We arrived our 'palace' hotel, which was very unlike a palace and ventured out for our first 'amok.' The local speciality, a kind of coconut curry. It was good, even by my curry standards!
We started the next day with a visit to the local museum, which was pretty poor. We sampled some street food, sweet potato fritters, yum and james had his hair cut. The worst one yet, there was no going back after the first shave, he was left with a Mohican. We spent the reminder of the day exploring the city and local markets, planning our interesting but sad day tomorrow living the historical events of Cambodia. The day started with a trip to the killing fields. A place in which you didn't want to see but the need to pay respect to the awful events. Very difficult to describe the experience, the area however very peaceful, despite the remains of human bones and clothing from the mass graves being visible. The 9000 skulls on show was a sight we will never forget. The audio guide gave an interesting but gruelling insight into the experiences had by Cambodia people only 30 years ago. Shocking how it went on for as long as it did. If this wasn't enough we decided to head to the S21 prison, where Cambodians were held and tortured before being taken to the killing fields. Such an eerie atmosphere walking through the purpose made cells within what used to be a local school. The photos of each prisoner still on show, unbeknown to them what was to come. Such a sad but insightful day. We Headed to the nearest bar for a cider and a Angkor beer, to reflect on the day's events.
Next on the adgenda Siem Reap. A bus journey later, and meeting the lovely Jo and Jen from London we arrive at our pre booked hotel. Again nothing like advertised and the area was even worse. Every bar/restaurant was fronted with young girls in very little clothing, resembling a brothel. We were unable to find an English menu and with the bars being very seedy we headed back to our hotel and ordered terrible food. Surprisingly we moved the next morning to a lovely little guesthouse where we spent the next 4nights ready to explore the famous Angkor Wat. We purchased a 3 day ticket, hired a pushed bike and headed into one of the wonders of the world. We wandered through the old temples climbing over tree roots which had grown up and around the ruins within the jungle. After 17km of cycling and exploring we were done having only covered a small section of the area. Back in the morning for sunrise.
A 5am start, sharing a taxi with Jo and Jen we headed to the main event, Angkor Wat itself. A little disappointing as there was no sunrise, it went from dark to light but no sun to be seen. Still an experience. We continued the 30km tuk tuk tour around the circuit before heading back to bed! The following days were a right off, due to too many drinks, and soon were were heading to Otres beach our next destination in South Cambodia. As we headed up the dirt track towards what looked like a very undeveloped beach area with several huts, we would never have believed we would stay a week! First night, we stayed in a mushroom, a very basic beach hut, probably the worst nights sleep we've had the whole trip! The rain and wind howled, and being only metres away from the sea it was pretty scary. The morning shower was interesting, brown water! That was it we were moving....to another mushroom, a concrete one with hammocks and all. We were beginning to love this place, however a little expensive we moved to sea garden bungalows for the remainder of the week, which was run by westerners, who came and never left. All I can say is we were sharing our wooden shed, but not with humans. Good job I'm not to scared of rats and cockroaches. On the up side we awoke to the sea on our doorstep and ate like kings! Western food heaven. Particularly the salad with cubes of cheddar cheese, such a treat after 4 months without it :)
It's now the 14th July, it's raining lots, but surprisingly it's not a problem. We spent the rest of our time at Otres walking the length of the deserted beaches, playing chess, drinking rum watching the sunsets and eating more western food. Loved it!! Very difficult to leave. Next we headed to Kampot, just up the coast. First accommodation was iffy, we therefore done a rekki and checked into another. Again, rooms no where no how they looked on the net, so another move later we found the one! A pool, fluffy fleece clean blankets, a bed and a shower each! Result. We stayed there for the next 5 nights. Ours, well my impression of kampot wasn't great at first however it was even harder to leave than Otres! One of our favourite places to date. Amazing food, particularly fish amok the local dish. Having not hired a moped for some weeks we headed into the local villages, getting lost, riding through flooded dirt roads, waving to the local children wandering alone. Eye opening. We ended the day with a ride up Boker mountain which was very high, cold and pretty scary!
Our fondest memory of Cambodia was on the 22nd July where we visited a local village where a lady from American had recently completed the building of a school. We travelled in her truck, though the remote countryside and across the most unstable wooden bridge ever, waving to families living such basic lives. Within a year and half she has build an earth ship school which will allow children in the remote village to attend and learn some of whom have never been to school. We were privileged to meet some of the children who are so happy and excited about the project. Despite not speaking any English we managed a game of piggy in the middle and paper, rock, scissors. The adults offered us fermented rice wine and dried fish which we were inclined to eat, not nice! It was amazing to see what one person can achieve, and the difference a small amount of money can make to many families living lives most western people could not comprehend. Amazing day, which made us realise how lucky we are!!
Our last day in kampot was spent, well, mostly eating :) the local dish amok for lunch, cider And ribs for tea and a cheese platter after a beautiful sunset cruise up the river. Kampot was becoming harder and harder to leave but the next leg of our journey was about the start, with a flight to Kuala Lumpur, where Sharon and Martin are brave enough to tackle the two week itinerary we have planned. We have loved Cambodia and its people, it's been an interesting, eye opening, country much less developed than expected, which was a welcomed change from the commercial areas of Vietnam. Very glad we paid a visit and definitely a place worth seeing again :)
Much love Roanna & James xxx
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Shar & Tony only now getting chance to read this blog as we ware busy getting ready for adventure inMalaysia with you! Loved reading every bit it. Can't believe that we have now had our special time with you both! Where has the time gone! Memories to keep forever! Xxxxx