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13 April: Spent the day exploring Kigali starting with a trip to the Genocide commemorative museum with a number of other girls. The museum was great and gave a very real and sad history of the 100 days in Spring 1994 where over 2 million people were killed, the majority of Tutsi origin. The blame for the rivalry between the three ethnic groups, Tutsi, Hutu and Twa was placed firmly at the Belgians door. It was the Belgians who first highlighted the differences between the two groups, making everyone carry an identity card. The Tutsi's were the wealthiest of the tribes and made up the majority of the government even though they represented only 14% of the population. The Hutus made up over 80% of the population and began to rebel against the discrepancy. The Hutus then were given more senior positions by the colonists in the government and in the army. It ended up that all jobs in the government, army, civil service were divided into the % ratio Hutu and Tutsi. The government then led a propaganda campaign against the Tutu including a 10 point plan forbidding a Hutu from marrying, employing or doing business with a Tutsi and claiming that the Tutsi were planning to attack the Hutu and take them out. On 2 April 1994 the presidents plane was shot down and this sparked all out civil war culminating in the death of over 2 million Rwandans, mostly Tutsi and the raping and mutilation of thousands of others. Women and children were especially targeted as they were the ones who could carry on the Tutsi generation. Horrific torturing took place including the raping of women and children by known HIIV positive men. The museum has a section specifically dedicated to children murdered in this regime. Very sad. Although the fighting has ceased, the after affects remain for generations with thousands of orphaned children, mutilated and disabled children and a massive increase I HIV positive women and children. The required medical services were not available on such a large scale and hardly no one received mental help for the atrocities to which they were either subjected to, witnessed or carried out. The required anti viral drugs were not made available to victims. Justice and Retribution trials have taken place and more than 2 million cases have been heard to try and bring those responsible to justice. The museum was very moving and dealt with genocide in other countries including Armenia, Germany, Namibia and Bosnia and tries to educate visitors about the early warning signs, dangers and consequences of genocide.
Every year Rwanda commemorates this horrendous period of their history for 100 days and has a special commemoration week where events take place. This week commemorated the 18th anniversary of the genocide and there were lots of events taking place, posters around Kigali and everyone was wearing purple flags and bandanas as a mark of respect.
After the museum, I took a moto to the Milles Collins hotel, the hotel which the film Hotel Rwanda was based. It resembled the film and was quite surreal walking around the hotel knowing what took place there only years earlier.
I then wandered around Kigali city centre and the markets picking up a blue Indian dress for Jacquis wedding. Its lovely but may be too different. Will have to see!
Went to dinner with some girls in the hostel later that night. One of the girls was from Uganda and the other was volunteering in Uganda.
14 April. Today I took a moto to the bus station and after being mobbed by numerous bus companies begging me to go with them to Gysingi. I got on one bus and took a beautiful three hour journey to Gynsingi through the green mountains and valleys of Rwanda passing rivers and waterfalls. The scenery was spectacular. I arrived in Gysingi and a local resident who I met on the bus gave me tips of all the best places to visit. I made my way down through the town to lake Kivu and to the lovely beach which surrounds it. The lake and scenery was amazing. I went into the local Serena hotel located on the lake and watched the locals taking part in watersports including swimming in the lake and jetsking. I had lunch overlooking the beach and the lake before making my way back through the town and the obligatory stop off at the village market before heading back to Kigali. This marked the end of my travels. Such an amazing experience. Next stop was to fly to Nairobi where I would spend some time volunteering with a womens and childrens project in Nakuru.
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