Day 25

15 May 2013

Ha Tinh to Ninh Binh



Day 25

May 15 2013

Ninh Binh

There is something about motorcycling many people don't understand or simply never think about at home but more so here in Vietnam

There are no words to describe the harrowing, heart racing, bare knuckle exhilaration of driving a motorcycle in Vietnam. It's two worlds consisting of the crazy rat race maze of the cities, and the death defying low speed motoring down a narrow highway that serves as the country’s main line for transit and commerce. Every driver or rider qualifies for the reckless driver/rider of the year award, without exception including the police.

This type of nonchalance when it comes to traffic laws, where obeying them is purely up to the discretion of the driver, suits me quite well. Whereas back in the Australia, I’ve had a ticket or two for casual mistakes made purely out of impulse, here I can let loose and ride to my heart’s content. Already feeling like a native and supremely confident in my skills, four days ago I set out for the A1 to begin my trek north. Even though it’s the country’s largest major highway, it still pales in comparison to what we would consider a proper roadway.

Winding through small towns, potholes and asphalt patches around every turn, one lane each direction, even the occasional stretch of dirt and gravel terrain, it has been an unforgiving wake up call to the realities of riding in Vietnam. Several times did I come a hair's breath away from a serious crash. Sheer luck and quick reflexes are all that stand between me and a hospital bed. With long days of endless highway stretched out in front of me, it’s better I go into it prepared for the worst and expecting disaster around every turn. Still, the A1 has been my friend from day 1. As for tomorrow I know I will love her and curse her as I do every day. Expect the unexpected, I keep on thinking. The road it often raised from the surrounding area, at any time a scooter may come up running up the embankment on my right and cut in front of me. Not a moment is allowed not to concentrate on the road ahead. Scooters and motorcycle ride on a kind of bike track on the extreme right (Right hand traffic in Vietnam)This track often just disappears into oblivion or turns to gravel, dust etc. It is used to dry rice where farmers use its surface the spread the crops, Approaching need quick action as this pushes you in the truck lane which may even have a truck or bus driving on it coming from the opposite direction. And then are the thousands of people who ride towards you about to make a left turn, kilometers before the left turn they started to ride on the opposite side of the road. The motorcycle track often faces oncoming traffic who ride on the extreme right-hand side, so you slow down a bit,only to be passed by a truck blowing dust in your face when it passes inches from your body.

This day saw me ending in Ninh Binh. "Halong Bay on land" it is called. The rocky karsts outcrops surround this area not unlike far north east Vietnam near the Chinese border. The road twists and turns around the rocks and occasionally cut right through them by means of very challenging tunnels.

Thus far I have passed around a dozen police checkpoints. The wave me down and when I am nearly there and they can me you clearly they wave me on. I guess think, “Oh **** this is going to be too hard for me”

As a rule they don’t speak any English