2014-08-19

About Mustard and Cheese

The weather is still less than what I had hoped for. Leaving Normandy the plan was to head for Switzerland about 700 km east. But first, south of Normandy is the famous "castle in the sea" Le Mont Saint Michel. Whenever you see France being advertised in posters very often this castle is featured. So South I went and slightly west only to be greeted by another bucket load of rain. I looked to my left and saw blue skies in the distance. The first left turn which doomed up I used to point me into that direction- Luckily I had been at the castle mount before so not all was lost. After selection the shortest route I was faced with a 600 km ride and an eleven hour time span. From village to village, while watching the farmers turning over miles of grass ready for collection in the form of hayI could smell the pleasant odour freshly cut grass all the way to Dijon.

On entering Dijon I gave looking around for the Mustard factory a miss. 11 hours had turned in nearly 13 hours. Enough of that.

The moment you cross the border of Switzerland everything changes. Only 500 meters inside the country i entered a town called Le Locle with a most beautiful Town Hall which made me stop and turn back to have a look at it. The main street has those typical Swiss style buildings- better take some pictures before it starts become standard issue around each corner.

From there to the city of Bern and across lower mountain passes to Interlaken. I had no idea where I would end up; several times I just coded in the next large town and headed in that direction until I got to the town of Brienz. If it had been early in the day the next obstacles would have been a pleasure to meet. The mighty Grimsel and Furka passes. I quick check saw 4 degrees and rain as happening there at that moment.

The alternative Susten pass around the northern end of the Sustenhorn reaches 2300 meters, it was 6 degrees but dry. After putting on all the warm and rain clothes I own, I set off at 5.15 pm not knowing if this would be a bad decision.

The road took me above the tree line and high up into the clouds. Past sheer drops offs of hundreds of meters and windy roads void of fences or barriers I reached Andermatt at 7 pm.

I decided to push on and find a place to stay along the road running east. A sign with “Zimmer Frei 30 Francs” (about US$22). Greets me when I roll into a town called Muster. I park the bike and remove some gear and walk inside. The man behind the counter asked “Are you alone”. “Yes” I answered. Then he says: I only have a room for 4 people so that will be 120 Franks. My standard answer in these situations is always the same. I pause a moment, look the man in the eyes and say: “I think you misunderstood me, I don't want to buy the room I just want to sleep there. “ Then he says: “if more people turn up I will give you a credit.”

I think his approach should have been to give me a bed for the night and then tell me that I may have to share the room with others if more people arrive, that would have been fine by me.

10 minutes later I was back on the road. Strange way of doing things- he may end up with an empty room all night. I bet he wasn’t the owner of the place.

At the end I found a place in Laax. I had written down the name of the hostel there but never expected to arrive as it has been another 10 hour ride.

Now... where’s the cheese...

Here are some pics