Day 11

1 May 2013

That Thai trains always run late I have learned to accept. I arrived several hours late into Bangkok but who cares. Anyway what a day I had.

After a long night in the sleeper train I arrived at the Bangkok Central station and decided to team up with my new found friend Rob. I left my backpack at the "Left Luggage" and we both got in a tuktuk. Rob knew the way so within minutes we were in the backpacker area to enjoy an excellent breakfast , consisting of bacon and scrambled eggs plus yogurt and muesli.

Just down the street we strolled over to the river and stepped on one of the long boats to enjoy the coolness of the river and to see some of the sites. I needed to keep an eye on the time though. Cities always look good from the water. At the end of the course we got off, walked some distance and said goodbye after which I stepped into a tuktuk on my way back to the station. It had been a short and pleasant encounter to meet with someone of like age and experience.

I wanted to keep up with some writing so sat down on level one on the verandah overlooking the station hall. A Swiss couple of around 60 joined me and soon we engaged in a discussion about the meaning of life and the pleasure of travel... or was it the other way around the pleasure of life and the meaning of travel? The man bought me a cup of coffee and a sandwich, Did I look poor or under nourished? No , it was his birthday.

I had just bought the train ticket for the 5 hour journey to the Cambodian border. The cost of the ticket was 48 Baht or about $1.60 Amazing! However, for that price you get a third class seat on an ordinary train with plastic seats and open windows. I was lucky to get a seat as the train filled up at a rapid rate, mostly with IPod wearing school kids.

From the Seat 61 website I had printed out advice regarding crossing from Thailand into Cambodia. Things have to be planned. The train stops 15 minutes short of the border. You need a tuktuk to drive you to the Tai side of the border during which the driver may take you to a fake border post in order to try to sell you a inflated priced visa. You than may have to pay extra to go to the proper crossing. You first have to get stamped out, walk through gates and are in no man's land where they try to flog you all sorts s of things including expensive taxi fares to the next town. All in darkness, which makes it more difficult. I had decided not to cross the border as it was getting dark around 6 pm.

By the time the train reached Aranprahtet it was close to empty and could I see some young travelers sitting at the end of the carriage. As soon as I got off the train I approached them (there is safety in numbers right? ) They were aware of the scams and hassles and where sort of relieved as well I had decided to team up with them. We bargained a tuktuk down to 100 Baht to take s to the border. As expected the driver took us to the fake border. (We saw other tourists inside the building who were obviously not aware of this) As soon as we protested he set off again, drove around the car park and took us to the real border crossing. The two French guys I was now travelling with did not have visas so I waited for them as I already had mine ordered through the online e-visa system. Although Cambodia is a third world country they are very up to date with issuing visas. No difficult forms to fill in or sending your passport around the country via registered mail. It is as simple as logging into the Cambodian Government Site, fill in a form and pay via visa or MasterCard. 24 hours later the visa is received via email and can be printed out. You only have to cut it out and glue it in your passport. Two more printed and cutout copies are to be staples in the back of the passport and all is done.

The passports were stamped again and soon we passing under the arch “Welcome to Cambodia”

A new country; I have lost count over the year of how many countries I have visited thus far.

After passing the border you can choose to stay in the nearby town of Poi Pet or get transport to Seam Reap, (the gateway to the world famous Angkor What Temples)

As expected we were approached by a taxi driver. The boys wanted to travel on to Seam Reap, fine by me. The driver quoted $48 for the 160 km,2.5 hour trip to Siem Reap. He then hastily quoted extra for the luggage.

During the weeks before my departure I had spent many days reading through web sites and travel blogs. Cutting and pasting information which I carry with me in printed format. I got my information out of my pack and quoted the normal price is $40 ,no extra fee for a second or third person and no extra for luggage. The driver looked at me and said: “ Ok Then! “ Now for the car, perhaps something really old and unsafe? It turned out to be a fairly new Toyota Camry with a good air-conditioning system and comfortable leather seats. We got in and … Cambodia…Roll on.

Around 10.30 pm we arrived in Siem Reap. The driver did not want to go into town and put us down at the edge near a tuktuk driver. He told us that he paid the tuktuk and that the tuktuk driver would take us to the address where the two French guys had booked in. As soon as the driver took off the tuktuk driver demanded extra money. In no uncertain terms we told him what he could do with himself. Another tuktuk driver turned up and took us the hostel. I had no booking and seeing it was late they quoted $30 for a room. I just laughed and said I would find something else. The guy than changed the price to $15 the moment I reached the front door. I just left the building and walked across the road to another hostel were I was quoted $10 for a bed. No Thanks. A few doors down I found a very nice place with marble polished floors, tiled bed and bathrooms and very clean. $3 will be fine the owner said. Ok I said two nights to start with.

I dumped my gear and went for a walk into town,; what a racket, bars, loud music, touts etc and people everywhere. I bought some cold water and a two banana pancakes and went back for a hot shower as, as before the only cold water available was hot.