Firstly I'd like to apologise for not posting my photos - I have been neglecting my readers and I'm sorry. Due to countless demands (well, 3), it is now my priority and when I get to Goa tomorrow, it will be the first thing I do. But be prepared - I have 6 rolls!

Happy Diwali everyone! Diwali here was amazing. I walked through the streets in disguise (in an Indian suit), so everyone I passes presumed I was indian and I was able to get a good look at everything without being hassled. The smells were wonderful - incense on the streets, then there was Mehndi being painted on the girls, and everyone was buying statues and prayer items for the home. There were Indian sweets (which I ate many of, and the ants in my room had the rest!) and lights everywhere. The shopkeepers were all in a great mood, streets were packed. There were balloon sellers, everyone was on the streets and the fireworks started about 7ish and went on way past I fell asleep at night.

I spent the evening watching the fireworks from the rooftop cafe of a restaurant near my hotel with a couple from Manchester that I met on the 3 day trek I did in Manali. It was great and well worth coming to Delhi to see. Today I was taken around Old and New Delhi by a Ladakhi uni student that I met on the coach from Manali to delhi. We had to share a double sleeper together so we kind of had to talk. He is on Holidays for Diwali and said he'd just be bored watching tv at home, so I was so happy when he offered to take me round. We saw loads today - the Red Fort, Quintab Minar (old towers and ruins), Chandni Chowk (most famous bazaar in India), Connaught Place (expensive shops and restaurants), I bough Tibetan Cd's from the Tibetan Refugees market and we even had time for Delhi zoo. I never saw the lioness, but I certainly heard her when they were moving her from the cage and the roar out of her - I thought we were all going to be attacked and we'd be the tourists that died in a tragic accident in the zoo! We topped off the evening with a good old Pizza Hut and a chocolate brownie and icecream which was much needed after all that walking around! The best thing is that Enoch is studying near Varanasi, and  has invited me that way, so I'm hoping I have time to fit it in before I go to Thailand. Another woman that I met in the hospital in Leh invited me to Mount Abu near Rajasthan, so something tells me that this last month in Delhi is not by any means going to be uneventful! I've been trying not to get bitten in Delhi, but I've failed miserably. A woman I met from Pondicherry, India said she had Dengue Fever a while back and she got such painful headaches that she didn't care if she died!

Due to my hotel being on the Main Bazaar in the backpackers paradise area of Paharganj, it has been very difficult not to shop. I now have a new belly dance costume (7 pounds) and two new indian suits. Everyone is convinced that I am Indian, and truly very shocked when I open my mouth to talk. "You really look Indian you know". Apparently I look like I'm from Bihar (East India). I also look Bangladeshi, though one guy swears my ancestors are from South India... But people went to Mauritius from Uttar Pradesh apparently, so I've come to the conclusion that I'm from everywhere except the North and west.

The 3 day trek in Manali was cool in both senses - it was good, but it was bloody cold especially at night. On the second day it snowed while we were at the furthest point. The guide pissed me off a bit cos he hinted that he could keep me warm if I got too cold, then kept hinting that he needed a sleeping bag like mine and oh my trekking shoes were nice, and just his size too. Anyway, apart from that, it was good fun - but I don't think trekking's for me.. it's just too strenuous, and when the heart starts pumping (which is when I'd usually stop), you've got no option but to carry on for another few hours. The scenery was amazing though - the mountains were very beautiful and we had camp fires and delicious food from our great chef.

I've realised that I never really said much about Leh - it was absolutely lovely - the people were always smiling and waving. The Gompas have huge Buddha statues. On our trip to Nubra Valley, we saw what I'm sure is the most beautiful stream I'll ever see. The colours were so amazing that I would have jumped right in if I didn't know how cold it was. I can't explain the colour of blue I saw - only that if you've ever seen a bright blue stone of such a colour that it doesn't look natural, that is the colour of te rivers in Nubra Valley. We stopped a few times along the way to let Maya get sick, but also to pick Leh Berries, which only grow in Ladakh, in the Himalayas, so I may never taste them again - they are like cranberries, but sweeter.mmmmm. We also wne to Panamic, I natural hot spring, where there was no one there cos of the end of season, so I could strip off and have a much needed HOT spring bath! I felt so amazing after that I was buzzing! I met 3 Belgian girls on this trip, whom I joined a few days later for a day trip to Pangong Lake, which was a long drive, but extremely beautiful. This lake actually goes from India, through the Himalayan Range and into China. One of the best things though was the guest house we were staying at, run by a family who have two schoolgirl Ladakhi girls who are so lovely that we got the presents before we left. Ladakhi food is great - potatoes and something similar to Italian gnocchi is a typical Ladakhi food. The Tibetan momo's (similar to Chinese dumplings) are also a must.

Carina, nice to hear from u - hols sound great. Ant will hopefully be joining me in Thailand over xmas and/or New year depending on the condition of his mum. Hopefully all will work out well. I've already been attacked by bed bugs, and it's not good! Abi, you keep that Mr Men toy safe for me and I'll be round to collect it next year! Selina join me whenever ur free babe - this travelling stuff's great fun, and bring Cookie and zara, I miss them! Over the British summer hols I'll be in S.America so come and join.  Love you all, I'm off to Goa! See ya, Rish xxx