Just brushing up on what to see in Delhi, before we board the first class luxury of Indian Railways Mandor Express to Jodhpur... and couldn't resist this description of Old Delhi's bazaars that are "a headspinning assault on the senses: an aromatic muddle of flowers, urine, incense, chai, fumes and frying food." - definitely on the agenda, even if we are jet-lagged.

The nearby Red Fort will also be a highlight - pointing to the splendid Mughal reign of the 17th century, and you can't help but admire the ascetic Jains who established a bird hospital in their Digambara Temple where only vegetarian birds are admitted (though carnivores are treated as outpatients).

And, of course we'll also spend some solemn moments at the Raj Ghat along the banks of the Yamuna River to remember a more modern dynasty of the Ghandi / Nehru clans.

Old, new, exotic, chaotic, devout, filthy, a wonderful place of contradictions and accommodations.

I can almost taste my first lassi already (salty please).