A Milanga is cross between a dance hall and a club where people only dance tango and as a structure, the Cathedral (Sarmiento 4006) could not be better for an evening of dance. The hall had the air of a security society, a building cobbled together, a place to dance in secrecy. The building itself was in an old wear-house, two open stories with windows only open toward the ceiling. Inside, the wood walls were adorned with eclectic art, and a large red orb in the shape of heart hung above the bar, like a cross above an altar. This was the place where you worship the passion of Argentinean tango.

When we arrived at nearly eleven in the evening Cathedral was empty. We sat ourselves in mismatched chairs around a large round wooden table nearest the dance floor and for the next hour we drank, ordered food and watched the beginner class of mostly tourists take to the floor. As the evening progressed, so did the quality of dancing.

However, the quality of service at the bar was lacking. The Cathedral only serves vegetarian food and while the drinks came quickly and often, the food did not. By the time the live music began my head was spinning (just not enough to tango). On one of my many trips to the bathroom, I saw folks doing coke, how else could you dance until dawn. Maybe the waitress should have partaken for when I walked toward the bathroom, she was asleep in the hallway.

I highly recommend, Cathedral for a taste of the modern Milanga, just don't expect to eat.