This morning we had an early wake up call for our visit to Prion Island. Home to the nesting Wandering Albatross. These birds have the longest wingspan of any bird (averaging from 2.5 to 3.5m). They spend most of their lives at sea and only come ashore to breed or feed their chicks. They are masters of the wind currents and use the updrafts of the waves to push themselves back up into the air without having to flap their enormous wings. They are amazing to watch as they soar around the ship, but to get up close to a nesting one was amazing! Both parents incubate the egg and feed it. As it gets older they fly off for days at a time to gather food then return to give it a huge meal.

We landed on Prion before breakfast. This island is quite small and has a boardwalk and small viewing platforms to allow visitors to see the albatross without disturbing them. The seals however also like to use the boardwalk and we had an escort of a couple of pups leading us up the steps. The lower slopes have seals everywhere and it isnt uncommon to get barked at by one who is hiding unnoticed in the tussock grass close to the boardwalk. More than once I was made to jump. Amazing how something so cute can also be menacing. You do have to laugh when the pups growl at you though. They like to pretend they are big and tough but they are just so darn cute. If you growl back at them they take off. I need to work on my growl but John the naturalist who was leading our little group is a master at it.

At the top of the boardwalk we were rewarded with at least 2 albatross nesting quite close to the viewing platforms. They are pretty ungainly on the ground and its hard to believe these are the same birds that soar so majestically over the sea. It was the wrong time of year to see the mating ritual of these magnificent creatures but it was great to see them up close nonetheless.

Back to the ship for breakfast we headed south to Grytviken. As we entered the harbour we passed the memorial cairn erected by Shackletons men after his death. We landed on a beach close to the graveyard - final resting place of many of the whalers that lived and worked here as well as the Boss himself. In December, Frank Wild's ashes were also moved here to be buried beside Shackleton. It was the first time the expedition team had seen his resting place so it was a moving moment all round.

After paying our respects, we were treated to a tour of the whaling station by an intern who was summering on the island. I've forgotten her name unfortunately (any other passengers remember?), but I am thankful to her for her enjoyable tour which opened my eyes to the lives of the men back then. Whilst I am glad that its not practiced anymore, I can still admire the hardiness and the work put in by the men at that time.

After the tour we were left to ourselves to wander about the place. I visited the church which also housesa library and many of the tributes that have been left on Shackleton's grave over the years. Unable to help myself I climbed the stairs and rang the bells :)

There is a small museum at Grytviken as well which holds a life size replica of the James Caird - the small open boat that Shackleton and 5 of his men used to sale from Elephant Island to South Georgia Island some 1300kms away in April of 1916. Its amazing to think that 6 men lived in this boat, let alone managed to navigate it across rough seas that distance!

There is a full size stuffed Wandering Albatross in the museum. Getting up close to one with wings extended really gives an idea of the size of these birds. Im amazed they can get off the ground! I was also able to touch a King penguin and a fur seal pelt. The King at least did die of "natural" causes - you can sea the scar the leopard seal left. I was amazed by the softness of the feathers, and my the spikeyness of them under the skin (no wonder the Kings are miserable when they moult). The fur seal pelt was unbelievably soft inside and out. I can understand why they were hunted for their fur.

Back outside there was time to watch in wonder at the lumbering of the elephant seals, and the tenacity of the fur seals before heading back to the ship.