Day 19

We are glad to check out of the Scam Hilton and wonder down hill towards our awaiting boat...
Same drill as before.. We get there early and sit in the middle of the boat this time, hoping it's going to be a little warmer.....
This boat follows the same basic design as yesterday's, but its in better condition and the crew are different... They are trying to put everyone's bags under the floor boards again but mines going nowhere near..... Instead, to the confused bewilderment of the crew I carry mine to the back of the boat.. Behind the engine is a large open area which is above floor board hight and this is the only place I'm going to leave my bag today.... Shiree's is already under the floor boards at the front as we joined the boat separately but it's not on the bottom layer so should be fine.
This crew seem much more organised than yesterday's but in an unfair twist have been meet with around 90 - 100 people who all show a degree of hostility towards them, carried over from yesterday's experience...
The scenery is equally as stunning as yesterday, randomly placed bamboo fishing roles can be seen along the banks in the most isolated places indicating life within the think steep forests, unfortunately spending many hours on the boats looses its impact and appeal, somehow stunning scenery becomes normal and unappreciated and although dry it's very cold again.... The captain stops his boat on a number of occasions... Leaving the controls and wonders around the boat doing personal trades with village people either on the bank of the river or with fishermen in tiny boats made from planks of wood leaving us to drift down stream....
The crews food seams to be kept warm by placing it on plates that sit directly on top of the big lorry engine that powers this boat.
This is the only warm thing on the boat and having packed for warmer weather this is where I sit on the boat... Its noisy as hell but warm.....
As we close in on our final destination the river debris becomes much larger and more plentiful... Branches 9 inches think and three meters long float half under the think brown water and half above, among clusters of smaller branches that swirl together in numerous whirl pools two meters wide.... Quiet how the "speed boats" make it through this lot at tremendous speed without smashing big holes in there boats I'll never know.
When we arrive at out final destination, a small muddy bank about 5 miles short of the town we are staying in know body is willing to get off the boat... All to aware that this is short of the expected departure point, we sit for at least 40 mins in a unspoken stand off, everyone expecting the same scam as yesterday... We were expecting this to happen this time as we were warned by the guy who meet us at the boarder crossing so we are not to concerned, but it would appear that having an expectation that this was going to happen puts us in a minority... And with Shiree's bags under the floor boards we are going know where..
In the end the crew start placing people's bags in the muddy bank, in effect making people get off, we have a transfer booked and when we climb the bank up to road level we are as surprised as we are relieved to see our names written on a piece of paper... We jump into another minivan and head off into Luang Prabang, kayos unfolding around us as groups of Laos TukTuk drivers try to convince irate travellers to part with more money to get them into town.... Loading as many people as they can into every inch of space, bags chucked onto the roofs... There's so much weight in the TukTuks the front wheel is almost off the ground and the need to be pushed up the hill In order to gain enough momentum to start there onward journeys is required.
We arrive at our hostel in comparative luxury.... It's called Soutikone Guest House and it's lovely.... We have a room on the ground floor. The room is covered from top to bottom in dark mahogany and it's got a large clean bed and not a scam in sight.... Heaven !
We stay in the clothes we've warn for the passed to days and head out into Luang Prabang for food before bed..
Luang Prabang like many placers in south east Asia has French history and here it's everywhere.... We take a seat in the first restaurant we pass in the Main Street and order our meal with disregard of expense.... Cocktails, starter and steak... And it was all exceptional... French cooking standards still remain strong here... It's the best food we've had since leaving the UK and after the Slow Boat experience goes along way to improving our somewhat jaded opinion of Laos.
The money in Laos is crazy.., the smallest note is 1000 kipp with is seven UK pence.... There are no coins here... Only paper money.
After paying around £20 for our meal we are off to bed.... Only stopping off at a clothes store en-route.... The further north we have travelled the colder it's got, combined with the boat trip is making us both look pretty hard as buying a coat.....