I got up unnecessarily early this morning as this was a free day and I wanted to go to the small town of Kutna Hora to see the church of the human bones.

I walked back up to the train station and first bought my train tickets for the next tour, this took me about half an hour to sort out. I then purchased my ticket to Kutna Hora for the day and set off. The journey took about an hour and I changed trains to go to the village.

I realized when I got to the village that the church I had come to see was actually closer to the main station. Oh well, I had a nice time at the little village anyway. It had a rather impressive gothic church on a hillside, which was covered in gargoyles. The vistas around the town were magnificent, right out of an expensive European touring brochure.

I walked back down to the station and got ice cream along the way, the shop was actually selling Smurf flavoured ice cream. Strange.

I got the train back to the main station and walked about twenty minutes to the church, which is actually called an Ossuary. Once inside I was in awe of it. Everything inside was made of human bones.

A giant chandelier hung from the ceiling, containing at least one bone from every part of the human body. There was a coat of arms on the wall of the patron family of the church also comprised entirely of bones. There were twelve foot high piles of skulls and leg bones in each corner of the church and from every architectural feature hung more bone mobiles and sculptures.

There were quite a few people inside, but there did come a point where I was one of only about three people inside, which not only helped me to appreciate the place a bit more, but also to feel it. It was quite a warm day, but upon being left alone in the church, surrounded by human bones I suddenly felt cold. It was a different kind of cold too. I've become very familiar with the cold on this trip, having gone through Russian and Estonia in the snow, but it wasn't that kind of cold at all.

It was cold in a way that didn't make me shiver, or make me feel the need to rug up. The only way I can describe the cold in the building was that it was prickly. The sun was shining in through the windows, but the air still came out of my mouth as a dense steamy mist…which seemed unnatural.

I spent about an hour inside the church and then headed back to the station, I had just missed a train back to Prague so I had an hour to wait, which wasn't altogether unpleasant in the sunshine.

I got back to Prague and dropped off some stuff, back at the hotel, before immediately setting off to retrace the steps of the walking tour, except the massive hill up to the castle. No force on Earth or heaven was going to make me climb up that hill with out clients.

I walked back to the hotel and did a bit of trip note reading before heading off to bed. We have another night train to Slovakia tomorrow, so sleep is most definitely needed.