We've just reached Lake Taupo after being to Hell and back! Yes we started our trip round the geothermal areas and Rotarua by visiting a place called Hell's Gate. Apparently Bernard Shaw visited it and decided that was a good name, as many of his critics said that was where he would end up anyway. It was our first experience of all the bubbling pools and sulphur smells around here. It was only when we drove on to Rotarua, proper we were met by the smell and steams off the lake and realised that the whole area is gently bubbling in its subterranean cauldron.We visited the museum in Rotarua and were there confronted with the reality of the cataclysmic events of 1886 when Tarawera mountain blew its whole side out, burying acres of land, killing at least 120 people and totally reforming the landscape. What was a peaceful tourist valley was suddenly wiped out and the mountain ash and debris took over. The museum was interesting too as it was an original spa building, lots of timber framing!!!! So we had to look at the basement- very hot, and the roof-lots of timber but a great view as well.In the evening we had to do a Maori cultural experience, and went to Te Puia which has 2 geysers in its back yard. We had the greeting, the concert and the hangi food, all very interesting, although I was not very good at Poi and Peter refused point blank to have a go at the Haka. The highlight though was the trip by closed in mini tram to the geyser terrace. We stood there admiring some steam pools and then both geysers started to bubble and foam and the water and steam flood lit from nearby, leapt into the air. It was a fantastic sight and we were reluctant to leave although apparently they play for about 20 minutes and then go back to bubbling and steaming again.Today we left Rotarua and signed up for the hike down the Waimangu volcanic valley and a nice relaxing boat ride on the lake at the end. Lots more hot springs and steamy places with some fine silica terraces formed as the water spills out. This is the newest hot spot in the area, the tail end of the Tarawera eruption and they have had eruptions as recently as 1973, when a hot pool exploded and destroyed a house, where the restaurant is now. Today it was very quiet, beautiful forest and lake but the mountain still looks very grim and forbidding. We won't be buying real estate there any time soon.Off to explore Lake Taupo tomorrow.Rosemary and Peter