Leaving Syria without a problem we arrived at the Jordan border. We joined the queue for a vehicle search but the guard only had a cursory look in the camper probably more out of curiosity than anything. We wento on to purchase vehicle insurance and have our visa validated and then had the carnet de passage (temp import for vehicle) completed for the first time. The whole process was very civilised and amiable.

Immediately upon entering Jordan it was obviously very different from Syria. The roads are better, properly tarmaced and the driving not as frentic. It is much cleaner and greener although 80% of Jordan is desert. We drove up to Al-Himma in the north west hills which is a stone's throw from the Golan Heights currently occupied by Israel & Palestine and just across the border from the Sea of Galilee. We had to stop at 3 army checkpoints whilst the Jordanian soldiers in full camoflage gear with automatic weapons checked our papers. Each checkpoint was guarded by armed soldiers in Hummers ready for action. We got as far as we were allowed to before being told we had reached the end of the road and turned around and went back.

We found a small hotel in Jerash called the Olive Branch way off the beaten track outside town with views ofver the surroundhills that could easily fool you into thinking you were in Tuscany. The hotel allowed camping in its grounds and if left good to camp again for a couple of nights. Jerash is one of the best examples in the Middle East of a Roman provincial city and is remarkably well preserved. In the old Hippodrome in the town Jerash Chariots have chariot races daily and recreated Roman legionnaires going through their military drills followed by gladiators fighting it out (actually Jordanian special forces). It was good fun to sit and watch although blisteringly hot in the hippodrome.