GIBB RIVER ROAD - WINDJANA GORGE - TUNNEL CREEK - KING LEOPOLD NP - MANNING GORGE - CHARNLEY RIVER STATION

I'm pleased we didn't just take a few people's word on the accessibility of the Gibb in a AWD subaru Forester! Especially the Information Centres, who mind you have never actually driven on these roads. We would have missed half of the Kimberley and the most spectacular places. The road is in great condition really. Admittedly the Grader has been through in the last 3weeks, but we've seen your normal old Holden station wagon and 2WD Sedans poking along this road. It's certainly not the hardcore 4WD track as we were initially lead to believe.

Entering the Gibb from the western end (Derby), approx 2hrs drive is the turn off to Windjana Gorge. This can be accessed from Fitzroy Crossing, but we were advised to take the Derby route so the Subi could manage it. Actually the Gibb itself so far, a 2WD could handle. The road is better maintained than the gravel road up to my parents place! The section to Windjana was corrugated, but if you take your time, it's no worries. We arrived first, the others trailing an hour or two behind. With no phone reception, we got to crank up the CB radios- first time ever!!! Now we were doing the outback travel thing!!! 'Copy Copy' 'Over and Out Roger Ducky', I can see how people become a little CB obsessed! It's so much betterer than talking with two tin cans and a piece of string!!!

Camping in the Kimberley NPs requires vehicle day passes and self registration camping fees. Although the Ranger does pop around occasionally, it really is an honour system. Which is great, as we were totally shocked to discover, flushing toilets and a Solar shower block! Sure they weren't 5 star- but hey a trickle of hot water if you time it right in the day, is a whole lot better than no trickle at all. I'm more than happy to contribute to the construction and maintenance of basic facilities in popular campgrounds- as not everyone understands the logistics of 'diggin a hole' when others intend to use the camp site after you- if you catch my drift!

So we set up for two nights at Windjana. People raved about the gorge- for us, wasn't that special, compared to others- had we known that, we probably would have done a day trip here and to tunnel creek, then kept driving. We did have our first up close encounter with Fresh water crocs and a school of Barramundi, hanging out by the bank under the branches of a big tree. The kids were fascinated ( and so were we!)

Back at camp, the hammock was up (in hindsight, possibly an error on my behalf) and everyone wanted in- simultaneously!!! Now it is a Mexican queen sized hammock, by the time one adult and 3 kids are rolled in around you there ain't much consideration of personal space! The "conditions of entry" being "lie still and quiet voices" so we can enjoy the birds and the stars, didn't last long!! But story time, cuddles and a sing a long far out weighed the wriggling and well placed elbows in the bladder! There's something about a four year old snuggling up next to you, them makin sure your arm was around them, gleefully awaiting the next page turn!

Tunnel Creek is a great adventure! It is literally a tunnel, which has been carved out over time by the river course. Approximately 750m in length, with water shoes, togs and a torch it was time to enter the 'Ghost Bat Cave'! Some sections of the tunnel are quite deep, if you venture off the 'beaten track' that is. Inadvertently a couple of the kids got dunked a little deeper than anticipated, but it was all part of the fun!! We weaved throughout the tunnel, discovering various forms of stalactites and stalacmites, aboriginal rock art, numerous butterflies, and playing 'spot the fossil' within the rocks at the end of the tunnel. Wading through the nippy at times water, was well worth the enthusiastic experience- even when I nearly went 'A over T' in a deeper hole, and thought I'd ruined the camera!

The new moon allowed the keen astronomers among us to search the night sky for hidden treasures. The awe and wonder of young Riley, star gazing, reminded me how we 'miss' so much in everyday life. When was the last time you sat outside and admired the night, possibly even enjoying the unexpected thrill of witnessing a shooting star?

The following day we moved 100km further along the Gibb to Silent Grove Campground and Bell Gorge.
'Silent' was a bit of a laugh- as there had to be at least 300 Cockies that were resident among the branches above us. We had bets on who was going to be the first to be 'blessed' by Cocky Poo!!

Before the Backgammon Tournament began ( Riley was keen to learn, and nearly showed up his mentor on the first round!!), we wandered up to Bell Gorge, which is 10km further up the track from the Campground. Apparently, there used to be private camp spots along the river, closer to the Gorge- however they are no longer an option, so everyone bunks in together at the main area. Although, there are specific areas for Generators and Group Tours, so it is possible for some peace amongst the shrill of the flocks overhead.

Bell Gorge, required a short 1.5km walk, steep and rocky at the beginning, with a couple of very narrow water crossings- nothing a bit of rock hopping didn't sort out. Then, the wow factor emerged! Five or six rock pools laid out before us, all flowing into the water fall and a tiered drop into a massive swimming hole, surrounded by wall to wall escarpment. Since we had the kids with us, we decided not to navigate the climb down to the deeper hole below...as we knew little feet would be very keen to follow. A paddle and play in the pools higher up were more than sufficient.

The next day Kerry and I were keen for some quiet time, so we jumped in the car and traversed our way northeast another 100km further up the road toward Mt. Barnett Roadhouse and Manning Gorge. We had contemplated camping up there, and knew this would be as far along the Gibb as we could venture- but decided to day trip and visit the Gorges closest to the main road along the way.

Adcock Gorge- was 5km in, and has recently become a day visit location only. The station owners had closed access completely because too many inconsiderate people had ruined the area for everyone.
It was a gorgeous little spot, grotto like. We had our first swim, knowingly, with Fresh water crocs. We were fortunate to be visiting alone, so as we rock hopped our way in, we passed a Monitor Lizard sunning himself on a rock in the middle of the Lilly filled creek- he appeared undisturbed by our presence, in fact if anything, put on a bit of a show- ensuring we photographed his 'best angle'. We had an opportunity and enough space to rip into some pent up emotion that had accumulated over the last week or so (if you are having difficulty connecting with suppressed emotion- spend a week 24/7 in close proximity with a group of kids! Hooli dooli- they'll show you in a heartbeat what your issues are! Such a gift- though I wasn't too convinced of that at the time!!). Let's just say I'm glad there was no one within ear shot- I reckon they would have thought we'd been nabbed by a Salty!! Thrashing out your frustrations in the water I can highly recommend- water is very forgiving on your body.

A good cry later, and we were off to the next gorge known as Galvans. This Gorge is the most popular along the Gibb road stretch as it is the most easily accessible- and despite the short walk in, this little gem has made it to number one on our favorites list. When we arrived there were two families present, climbing up the tierd waterfall ledges and jumping into the pool below. Intending to make our way over for a massage a la waterfall- little did I know I would find myself climbing up 3 tiers and jumping!! Holy crap!! I never do that! I knew it was deep, and the way was clear- but geez- talk about facing some fears!! The first time, I'm not sure I comprehended what I was doing. So I had to do it again- now freaked out by the 'falling' sensation ( which seemed to last for ever) I was shaking like a leaf, heart pounding, as I peered over the edge and reality kicked in. BUT I was determined to not chicken out ( Check out PegKezzy on YouTube). We cruised around the crystal clear vibrant waters for about an hour, checking out the fish with the snorkel, and soaking up the peace and tranquility whilst drying out on the rocks. This gorge is truly what you imagine in your mind an oasis to be.

Manning Gorge & Falls- owned by an aboriginal community, that are quite adamant that no one enter Manning Gorge Campground or swimming holes without first purchasing either a Day Pass $8 per Adult or a camping site, $20 per Adult per night. Manning campground was idyllically located 200m from the river. Sandy banks and mostly sandy bottom compared with the usual rocky river beds. Great access and brilliant for travelers with kids.
To reach the Gorge walking track, styrofoam boxes were available to place your gear in, in order to float it over the width of the river whilst you swam or waded across. Or there was a little tinny rigged up with a pully rope, where you could chortle your way across hand over hand, gently gliding across the water- watch out for the docking though!!! The walk was suitably challenging, having to descend steeply the last 15mins or so, every step building your gratitude for the weary plonk in the water upon arrival! ( Lets not ruin the vision by the obvious climb back out just yet).
The two main swimming areas were crisp, deep and clear. Some sections of the bank lead in by golden sand, others were almost like ready made steps, as the faults in the slabs of rock created a staircase of sorts. We entered the lower pool, then swam around the cliff edge, climbed the slippery water worn rocks, weaved through a few vine like, small trees that had sort life in the middle of the would be river bed, gradually making our way to the upper Falls. Agh, this was lovely. We swam and floated, admiring yet another completely blue cloudless sky, then decided to prop ourselves on a small ledge in a sort of cavern created underneath the 5m wide over hang and observe our surrounding through a curtain of luscious aromatic water. After a while it was too tempting to not swim back and forward through the curtain of waterfall. Fortunately, the flow in this particular section was not going to push us under- the same couldn't be said for the water pummeling down a metre or two further along the over hang.
Whilst the 4km return Gorge Walk and Falls are splendiferous with large deep swimming holes and rock holes to explore- we both felt a heaviness and an unwelcome feeling during our visit- there must be a few attached 'locals' that are less than willing to share this beautiful land.

It was now getting late in the day, and we needed to hot tail it 100km back to camp at Silent Grove. Even though it was a little more stressful keeping our eyes peeled for wandering wildlife at dusk, we did witness the most stunning sunset we have seen for some time. The colours were intense- its a shame the camera didn't capture it...maybe I'll paint it one day.
After a big day, we were tucked up in bed by 7.30- ear plugs in ( so the kids didn't rouse us at some ridiculous hour of dawn) and welcoming a restful sleep- next stop Charnley River Station.

Charnley was a beautifully inviting restful place to camp for a few days. The Managers are lovely, and possess a genuine desire to create a relaxed, tidy peaceful environment. They even offered us a job! Which we may consider for next season- we had too many places we wanted to visit during the remainder of the dry. The campground is located at the homestead, which is 50km in off the Gibb River Road. They cater for guesthouse accommodation, as well as the obvious campers. Three nights a week they have dinner available, if you can't be bothered cooking- although fortunately the set menu didn't really cater for vego/vegan so there was no threat to our budget this week!!! Lots of shade and fire drums at most sites, with wood supplied- we relished the opportunity to roast an array of veggies in the hot coals.
There are short 1-2km walks and bird watching trails accessible directly from the campground, and five gorges or swimming holes to explore at varying distances by car.
We had a chillaxing first day, slothing about the campsite- cooking up scones, golden syrup dumplings and pizza in the DreamPot. A few games of Backgammon and UNO, plus an hour or so re-equating myself and my finger pads to the Guitar- the resident Peacock didn't seem to mind.
The next day we did a day trip around the property, in search of pools to skinny dip in ( well maybe that was just me). Donkey Hole had three great spots a short walk from the parking area. Lilly Pools had one and Grevillea Gorge had two, though we only swam in the very icy lower pool, a pleasant reward after our treacherous climb down the three tiered waterfall. All up we did a circuit of about 80km.
This morning as we prepared our departure we were greeted by a Blue Winged Kookaburra. A nice way to say goodbye.