Day one Chiang Rai:
My first day was a bit hazy due to the long flight and time difference, but determined to keep going, I did some gentle exploration of the town.
A taxi was waiting for me at the airport and I was quickly at the north hotel, my home for the next 2 nights. Bang in the middle of the night market but in a quiet soi. Very friendly people and nice, comfortable but basic room, a quick freshen up and off exploring. First stop a 7-11 for supplies and then a general wander about the town. Quiet is the first thing that springs to mind. The city is in the lead up to the Loy Krathong festival this weekend, so many streets have lanterns already in place. The famous clock tower seems freshly re-gilded and polished and there is a freshness in the air as the rainy season has just ended and "winter" begins. The daytime temperature in town is around 25c falling to 18c in the evening... pretty nice.
So, after a wander it was time for a quick lunch of noodle soup with pork, small as I seem to have had 3 breakfasts this morning! By the time I'd done that it was 3pm, so I walked back to the hotel, picked up my camera and jumped in a tut tut to "the White temple".
A pleasant 15 minute ride brought me to it lying just to the south of the city. What can I say... Bellagio meets Budhism. The temple is all white with mirror accents, it is the creation of the artist, Chaloemchai Khositphiphat and it's slightly mad with a fair bit of symbolism thrown in around the edges. Supposedly designed to be seen in the full moon light where it would sparkle blue, like some celestial chariot bearing aloft the spirit Darmara, it's as camp as Christmas, especially when the fountains turn on for 5 minutes every quarter. There is also a small museum of "his" masterpieces (I quote!) which remind me of a collection of John McLaughlin album covers and those indian inspired badges from the 70s... all very Beatles White album. The highlight must be a recent canvas depicting George W Bush and Asama Bin Laden riding a cruise missile through space in a quest for world peace. Well mad he may be, I mean would Damien Hurst build a cathedral in his spare time? But the paintings show a beautifully skilled painter and his bronzes are exquisite.
As the day heads towards sundown, the waning sunlight streams golden across the side of the temple to striking effect and time comes when they shut up shop, including the gift shop selling "tasteful reminders of your visit here today", I once again resist the temptation and jump back in the tut tut and return to Chiang Rai passing sunlit rice fields and the smells of roadside snacks grilling over charcoal fires.
After a shower and a freshen up, I decline the offer of a beer and instead plump for a banana shake. Then feeling both virtuous and suitably refreshed I head off to the night market for a wander and some food. It strikes me there aren't many tourists about and most of the stuff on sale is clothing and phone related of as much
interest to Thais as tourists. There is quite a lot of Loy Krathong related items for sale.
In the night market are two open areas with a stage at one end, tables in the middle and food stalls around the edge, busy with Thais eating and drinking and pointedly ignoring the guitarist on stage. The food here is a lot less tame than in the night markets of Chiang Mai, cheaper too, a tray of grilled bamboo grub is only 10B... at least I don't feel I am missing out on I'm a celebrity get me out of here, I can do the wittchedy grub challenge right here. Settled on chicken with basil and rice, I know, so unadventurous! And with a full stomach, back to the hotel for a long awaited sleep...
A nice, but tiring day ends