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We had an extremely rude start at 3am to get a cab to the meeting point to meet up with the rest of the group on the bus. We all forced down a coca tea, but it didn´t really kick in to wake us up much, although I think Sarah, Katie and Alfie probably felt better than I did.
First stop was Ollantaytambo for a really nice breakfast and we had a quick look in the hotel garden at the many frightened guinea pigs running around in their little hutch. Every time you got near them they flinched and ran away - clearly animals are not stupid and they knew dinner time was on the way soon...
Once we got to the start of the trail we grabbed our walking poles, whacked on the suncream and mossie spray and headed up, following our guides Raul, Ruben and Marcelino (Marshmallow). We´d been told the first day was relatively easy and surprisingly it was. Terrain was mainly what they call ´Inca Flat´ which is basically a slight incline and none of us had any problems. One highlight was a local woman going mental at a pig and dragging down a hill by its back leg - not very dignified.
We crossed the Vilcanota River river and checked out our first set of full on Inca ruins at Patallacta which were amazing and we had great views of the Urubamba mountain range. After a total of about 5 hours walking we got to our first campsite at Ayapata and had the great surprise that our tents were already pitched and the porters were waiting with hot water, towels and soap so we could have a wash and freshen up.
Raul introduced all of the porters, chef and guides to us individually and everyone got a round of applause which was cool. The group then introduced themselves to the porters in Spanish (embarrassing). The food that night (and for the whole trip) was amazing and god knows how the chef managed to work such magic in such cramped conditions. Ramsay wouldn´t have a prayer up here.
After a decentish night´s sleep (for me anyway, I think Sarah suffered a bit) we dragged ourselves up in the dark at 5am ready for what would be the hardest day, day 2 - 8 hours of walking mainly at either a steep incline or decline. We all made it to the top of 'Dead Woman's Pass' (which was nearly renamed ´dead everyone´s pass´) and had a bit of a rest before getting down to Pacaymayu for lunch.
After another 2 hours steep climbing to Runkuraqay pass we made it to the campsite at about 5pm and were cream knackered. Hadn´t helped that it had rained practically all afternoon so we were pretty wet and miserable. Really annoyed as well as mine and Sarah´s waterproof jackets damn leaked - arrrgggghhhh.
Loads more great food and amazing views before an early night after staggering around in the dark with headtorches trying to find the ´facilities´.
Day 3 was a relative lie-in of about 6am (wow) before taking a relatively gentle climb to Phuyupatamarca (Town in the Clouds) which was very impressive. We only walked for 4 hours so were at the campsite by lunchtime from where we checked out the site of 'Wiñay Wayna' (Forever Young) which was jawdroppingly amazing and still had water channels and drains working after 700 years.
We all had beers and checked out the views from the camp and there was even the luxury of a hot shower (admittedly which I didn´t take as there were loads of annoying people queuing).
Day 4 was the big one and we got up at 3am ready for the hike to the Sun Gate at Machu Picchu itself. We all breakfasted (somehow the chef produced 2 massive, iced cakes using just steam) and then staggered down to the park entry gate where we had to wait it out in the pitch black for an hour with all the other nutters up at that time.
Once the gates opened everyone went a bit mental and started rushing to get to the Sun Gate before dawn. Our guide had told us to walk quickly, but carefully, but we weren´t prepared for a few idiots from other groups trying to pass us and push in on the precariously narrow paths. Me and Alfie had a few choice words with a few of them and it nearly escalated to physicalities at one point, but luckily they backed down when they saw the size of my biceps.
In the end it was all in vain anyway as when we´d all climbed the final ´Gringo Killer´ hill we were met with thick fog at the gate itself. No-one from our group was too gutted as everyone was still buzzing from nearly fighting another group so we all had a laugh at them when they couldn´t see the sunrise despite their ridiculous efforts.
After the ceremonial handing over of our tour t-shirts from Raul we decided to descend into the valley to see the Machu Picchu site itself. We had to leave first and then come back in to make sure the site wasn´t too crowded and eventually the cloud lifted and it was really sunny.
The site was incredible and Raul gave us a 2 hour tour that really brought it to life. We hiked back up to the top with Katie and Alfie to get some more photos and then check out the impossible looking Inca bridge that was cut into the mountains at the top of the site. Katie got chased by a llama for a bit which was also pretty funny.
All in all, this was an absolutely amazing trip made better by the great Llama Path tour company and the friendly group of 14 other trekkers who came with the 4 of us (a mixture of mad kiwis, some serious and some odd americans and a dutch couple). Would definitely recommend this to anyone.
Also have to say the porters are incredible and we saw a lot of other group porters doing the hike in just sandals even though they were carrying huge packs. The Llama Path porters were by far the best kitted out and had all the right equipment and uniforms.
Sanitation footnote: I´m forced to say that if most of the people using the squat toilets were airline fighter pilots there´d be a lot more civilian casualties in global conflicts.
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