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21st - 24th March
So we had a ceremonial ripping up of the greyhound passes in Austin and were both looking forward to a civilised flight up to New York - even Paul has decided flying is the lesser of the 2 evils. Caught the plane with the remnants of the hipsters - all carrying the largest possible carry-on cases and twatting away like crazy on their iphones... I had definitely had enough of this nonsense for a while.
And back to the cold... had a longish walk from the subway to our hotel in the not so lovely Long Island City with the packs, so needless to say both of us arrived in a super mood. then had to literally dump the bags and run out the door to meet Paul's parents in their hotel in Times Square - yes, a slightly more salubrious location. Our first evening was spent eating a great burger from Island Burger on 9th Avenue, a failed attempt to go up to the top of the "Rock"-efeller Tower (too cloudy) and a meander around the bright lights of Times Square. We had a 9pm curfew as our free hotel shuttle from the subway to the hotel stopped at 10pm and we are now too skint to consider cabs when we have a weekly tube pass. These are a much better plan than pay as you go Metro cards if you're staying longer than a couple of days in NY, as Paul's parents unfortunately discovered, having to top up every other journey it seemed.
We were up bright and early the next day for a trip out to the statue of Liberty on the one nice day the 10 day forecast had promised us. Unfortunately, it seemed every other tourist in NYC had seen the same forecast. The queue was outrageous. Not helped by the airport security screening process they have. We ended up queuing for over 2 hours in the freezing cold. Paul and I had invested in the City Pass which gets you into loads of sights for cheap. A lovely man told us just as we reached the top of the queue that we could have queue jumped and taken Paul's parents with us as they "never split up families"... grrrrrrr. Statue of liberty was looking good - Ellis island is pretty much a waste of time unless you have family connections - guess it means a lot more to Americans than to people from the old country...
Our afternoon was spent wandering around Central Park, with a stop off at Strawberry Fields to look at the Lennon memorial. It was a gorgeous day and the park looked beautiful, especially across the lake to Bethesda Fountain. It's such a great space... little did we know we'd be neighbours to it in a few days...
Once we´d worked up our appetites with the stroll, we headed down to Chinatown for a delicious dinner in a nondescript looking restaurant called Hsin Wong, on Bayard Street. The best chinese we've had apart from the meal on the street in Bangkok. Puts London's Chinatown offerings to shame I have to say... Also had the first major case of over-ordering - the portions are massive but sooo delish it was worth it - especially the sesame chicken. Wouldn´t bother with the crab - an awful lot of faffing for not much reward...
And then success! The Rockefeller was open and non-cloudy. Views were fabulous - especially of the Empire State Building. Unfortunately we didn´t realise you could go another 2 floors up (not very well sign posted), as had to do another mad dash for the subway, cinderella-styleee.
We woke up on Wednesday to grey skies and a layer of snow. Very glad we´d decided to do museums today. We´d arranged to meet Eileen and Mike in Grand Central station "beside the staircase that's at the end of the Untouchables when the pram almost falls down" (actually a homage to Battleship Potemkin for all the cinephiles out there - at last my degree has a use). It was only when we got there that we remembered the Untouchables was set in Chicago - duuurrrrrrr. Was great seeing the station during rush hour - such an incredible setting - beats the pants off British Rail.
Jumped on the tube to head down to the ground zero site - actually now a massive building site, with one of the 7 new towers pretty much built, and the main new World Trade Centre tower over half way construction. We visited the Memorial centre, which certainly took me by surprise at the emotions it raised. Very moving, despite feeling a little strange that I was so upset, given I wasn't immediately affected by any of it. The plans for the Memorial garden look fantastic and it will be a lovely place of peace and quiet in such a busy area once it's finished.
We'd also experienced a strange phenomenon which was a little unexpected by some of us, although i remember experiencing this with Kate, when we were here last. Almost every time we got a map out to check where we were going, someone would stop to ask if we were ok and needed any directions. New Yorkers are pretty full on - especially compared to the rest of the States but they're a load more helpful than Londoners, and having now experienced NY subway at full on rush hour, it certainly felt less hideous than trying to get on at Clapham North at the same time. Urghhh we are NOT looking forward to that when we get back...
Lunch was epic. We headed to the infamous Katz' Deli in the Lower East Side, as the sleet started in earnest. Home of the orgasm scene in 'When Harry Met Sally' as well as the MOST amazing sandwiches ever, we had a great lunch - sharing a pastrami sandwich (they are massive) and a lovely cup of tea. Yum. A good cup of tea has become a little bit of a Holy Grail while we've been away...
Then it was up to the Guggenheim. Great collection, and despite being rammed, due to the weather, the layout means you don't experience the same sort of gallery rage that I suffer from at the Tate Modern. Although their coat queue system requires review... The building is fab though.
At this point we split up, as Mike and Eileen were off to see the Knicks (we had unfortunately left it too late to book tickets for this - need to do it at least 3 months in advance to avoid paying top dollah). Paul and I headed off downtown to Houston to meet up with his old Skive colleague, Matthew Don and some of his work peeps for a night of pool and many many beers. Somehow it got to 12.30 - eeek we had missed the shuttle. Matt very kindly packed us into a cab and sent us homeward... the poor cabby having to deal with my drunken concerns over his lack of snow tyres - to be fair it was dumping down at this point.
Thursday morning = hangover from hell, combined with freezing cold again. We are soo out of practice with drinking. Fortunately we´d arranged to go shopping... arghhhh. Carted our bag of stuff over to Mike and Eileen's hotel to take home - thank you!! Then off to Macy's for a spot of shopping. Paul managing to buy his 3rd pair of jeans and a new pair of kicks despite the hangover. I failed miserably to find any trainers.
After lunch, we said goodbye to Mike and Eileen after a fantastic few days with you, and thanks so much for spoiling us rotten while you were over. Paul and I took ourselves off back to the hotel via a quick stop off at the New York City Library. Almost as soon as we´d got back to the hotel, we got a call from Matthew, offering us his flat just off central park for our last couple of days. JUBILANT NEWS!!! Zoomed back into town to his office to pick up the keys and enjoy a couple of glasses of vino at their office drinks, soaking up the amazing view from their roof terrace... not a bad office at ALL....
25th - 27th March
Friday morning was spent carting our newly lightened bags over to our new address on the Upper West side, just next to Central park... i could happily get used to this. Then we had a lunch date with Gaetano Squillante - an old OMD-er who happened to be in NY for a few days. Went to PJ Clarkes on the East side. amazing burger and location - it´s a little Irish pub on 2 levels, surrounded by skyscrapers. Great to catch up with Guy who was looking very "amsterdam" with his new haircut...! After lunch, we headed off to MOMA, managing to time it about as badly as you can, as we got there around 3.30, and they have free entry from 4pm, so it got rammed. Managed to get round without too much rage and see pretty much all the amazing collection - it really is incredible what they have in there. Then toddled off home to our new location.
Saturday morning was slightly upset by a blocked toilet, but one new plunger later and we were good to go... wandered across Central Park to the Met for a couple of hours meandering through there. Saturday again, is probably not the best day to go, but it's so huge in there, it's possible to get away from the crowds. Then we were back downtown for dinner with the lovely Louisa and her man, Alex. Apparently only the "4th time in 6 years" that she'd cooked...hmm not sure i totally believe her. Had a lovely dinner with those 2, and again great to catch up with old friends - had been a great week of seeing people all in all. Enjoying our freedom from the hotel shuttle and New York subway which runs all night practically, we headed off to the top of the Empire State Building just after midnight - hardly anyone else up there, and another amazing evening - although bitterly cold. It's the tallest building in New York again until they finish the World Trade centre, and great building for the art deco.
Our flight on Sunday was late at night, so we finished off the City Pass with a quick visit to the Natural History Museum which was right on the doorstep practically. Absolute carnage with New York's equivalent of the chelsea tractor of pushchairs a go-go. Dinosaur exhibits are pretty cool though, as is the bit in the bottom with the amazing animal, mammal reptile etc classification trees. Very cool. Then it was off to the airport via the long way thanks to tube maintenance. Ahhh memories of London again - although we managed to find a way round without resorting to the bus. try doing that on the circle line at the weekend...
All in all, a fantastic week. Was amazing catching up with everyone and had a lovely time with Mike and Eileen - glad you enjoyed your first NYC experience. Now off to our final continent... yikes...
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