23rd February - 10th March 2008

We arrived at Store Bay, Tobago after sailing from Bequia and went by bus into Scarborough to clear customs and immigration. This proved to be a very complicated and time consuming procedure. All four of us had to be present in immigration unlike the other islands we have visited where the master goes alone with all the documentation. We waited 3 hours to be dealt with. Customs was much quicker as it was not busy and we were cleared in about 15 minutes. However to move the boat from place to place we had to return to Scarborough and obtain temporary clearance from immigration and customs. The island is split into two parts, the south being controlled by Scarborough and the north by Charlotteville. To move from one area to the other, we had to clear in the area we were in and immediately on arrival report to the area we had gone into. Then do the reverse to go back. We went to immigration and customs 6 times in total and got to know the staff. It is a very restrictive system which is not yacht friendly, so anyone contemplating sailing here be aware of this or you will be fined for falling foul of the regulations. There are no marinas in Tobago, nor is there a dingy dock in Store bay. Landing the dingy on the beach was interesting, with quite a big swell, we got very wet.

The next day Richard and Hanna joined us for two weeks. The airport is walking distance from Store bay which was useful. Getting their luggage safely on board via the dingy was challenging but we managed without anything getting wet. We had a great time and it was lovely to see them. On Sunday evening we all went to the local 'jump up', known as 'Sunday school,' at Buccoo bay. This is a street party held every Sunday, with a steel band, reggae music and stalls selling local food. We hired a jeep on the Monday after their arrival and did a tour of the island so that we could find suitable anchorages for later. However it poured with rain and the soft top to the jeep wouldn't close properly and the back seat passengers (Richard and Hanna) got wet. Places of interest which we visited during the next two weeks included 'The Arnos Vale Waterwheel', which is an old sugar factory with a restaurant and nature trail. There were fruit bats in the roof of one of the buildings and gecos on the wall. Hanna is a keen photographer and has recently bought a new camera with long lenses for wildlife photography, so this was a good opportunity to get some shots (see photos).

We went to Argyle falls, and had a guided tour with more photo opportunities for rainforest birds, including the Blue-Crowned Mot Mot, which was a real poser and baby camen. We could have bathed at the waterfall itself but didn't have our swimming things. However I slipped and fell in fully clothed. We walked in the rain forest next day and Hanna got photos of a humming bird at its nest and I got some video. Plus lots of other beasties like leaf cutter ants which were everywhere. Richard had a windsurfing lesson at Pigeon Point which is near Store bay and has good water sport facilities. He wanted to see if he liked windsurfing, as a possible sport to take up back home. He was very good for a beginner and found it great fun. They both went horse riding along the beach at Friendship bay, Hanna being an experienced rider and Richard an enthusiastic novice. We sailed to Charlotteville towards the end of the first week, anchoring 2 nights in Englishman's bay on route, where we had a BBQ on the beach. There were baby turtles trying to get to the water and providing dinner for the pelicans, best not to hatch during the day.We tried to rescue a few. Paul and Alex camped overnight on the beach and saw lots more turtles and an amazing display by the local fireflies during the night.

We all went scuba diving at Speyside. Paul, Richard, Hanna and I did a novice crash course with instruction in the swimming pool followed by an open water dive down to 40 feet off the reef at Little Tobago. Hanna and I found the pool OK but didn't like the sea, it was very rough, too deep and full of jelly fish. I won't be taking up scuba diving but at least I tried it. The boys loved it.