GIZA GEEZAS

5 April 08

Day 35

Alexandria - Giza (Salma Hotel Camping)

190km

After another great breakfast we picked up our laundry from the lady and it was awesome to have all our clothes clean again. (Later we were not so chuffed as Bruce's favourite shirt never returned!) It took us ages to find an open internet café and eventually found a fast one where we updated our Libya blog. Paid for our parking and car wash (which was unwanted) and headed for Cairo. We arrived just as it was getting dark and the traffic was manic. After a few wrong turns, U-turns and a bus that reversed into the car in front of us, we made it to the campsite in one piece. The campsite looks nice but hopefully we'll see the pyramids tomorrow. Was good to meet up with Andy and Noeleen again and after a few beers and a sheesha, I got to bed at 12pm.

6 April 08

Day 36

Giza

0km

Had a real admin day today which we needed to do. Gave the car a 6000mile service and also checked the right rear half shaft as it has been worrying me. All ok but it took most of the day and by the end of it I was exhausted with a headache so a nap was in order. Meanwhile Sarah washed the bedding, reorganise the packing and cleaned out a small sand dune from the tent, fixed all the holes in the battery box and did a few other odd jobs. Se also had a great skype session with her parents. It's awesome to be able to chat over internet and see them on the web cam.

MORE VISA ADMIN

7 April 08

Day 37

Giza

0km

SARAH: Taking a cab into Cairo with Andy and Noeleen we were hoping to get our Sudanese and Ethiopian visas sorted. Getting a 'Letter of Introduction' from the British embassy was easy. It cost 31£UK but at least we could both use the same letter and didn't have to pay twice. Our names aren't even on the document and it is a standard letter with a coloured stamp and date. With this in hand we went to the Sudanese embassy and put in our application. Mind you they just photocopied the Letter of Introduction for Bruce's application. Since there was nothing stating we were travelling together I wondered weather we even needed the official letter. We were expecting the visa to come through in an hour and waited with Any, Noeleen and another Canadian couple. The room was teaming with Arab people and tall dark Sudanese. The distinction was very obvious and the aggressive southern African nature was apparent in some of them making me excited to get further south to the heart of Africa.

2.5 hours later we were stunned when told we had to wait 10 days to get our visas as they had to get approval from Khartoum. This is exactly what we were trying to avoid. Pressing the issue we were told that this is a new rule as of last month, but we new a Dutch couple got theirs in one day just last week. We waited around to talk to the 'manager' and after another hour got to see the 'big cheese' Mr Osman who seemed surprised we didn't get our visas. He then said 'it can take maybe 1 hour, 1 day, 3 days 10 days or maybe no visa at all.' Not comforting news but he told us to come back on Wed.

So we got a cab to the Ethiopian Embassy and handed in our passports for that visa which takes 24 hours. With the admin done Bruce and I took the metro to 'Islamic Cairo' and the markets. The metro was super clean and great although spat us out a good 20min walk to the market. Walking through the city was great but crazy as you have to walk on the road as there are so many stalls and people on the pavement. Dodging cars we made it and loved walking through the maze of little streets passed coppersmiths, goldsmiths, clothes and trinket shops. The smell of offal wafted around the dirty streets. I bought a lovely brown pashmina and bartered the man down from 60E£. I eventually said ok I'll pay 50E£ for it. To this he replied 'ok my last offer is 45E£. So I said deal! We also caught glimpses of mosques above us but all the buildings were covered in city grime.

We had fun negotiating our way around without a guide and had fun finding some bread, milk and toilet paper before heading back to camp. I cooked a lentil Dahl using MacDuff's cookbook and we had a relaxing evening playing scrabble.

8 April 08

Day 38

Giza/Cairo

0km

BRUCE: Had a really lazy morning this morning. We had to be in town by 12:30 to collect our Ethiopian visa so only left at 11:30. Our cab man came to fetch us at 11:30 and we had an argument as his price had doubled overnight. After finally agreeing a price with and additional stop at a butcher we headed into town and collected our Ethiopian visa which was ready. After the Ethiopian Embassy our cab man took us to a great little supermarket which he thought was better as we would not be able to translate which cuts of meat we wanted to the butcher, and in the supermarket everything is labled. We were like kids in a toy shop! It was like a proper little western supermarket, the first we'd seen in ages and we bought loads including steak, mince, cheese, etc. Went back to camp and had great mince wraps for lunch followed by a snooze. Made a great fire with some wood that I found at the campsite and had the most awesome braai for dinner. Steak, sweet potatoes, carrots and courgettes. Andy and Noeleen came back with good news that they had got their Sudanese visas. Apparently they just dropped by, saw the man who signed their application and they had their visas 2 hours later. Good news is that we are going to try to get ours tomorrow.

9 April 08

Day 39

Giza/Cairo

0 km

SARAH: Another frustrating day was spent at the Sudanese Embassy. Andy and Noeleen managed to get their visa yesterday so we came in at 10:30. After some black tea at a roadside coffee shop we met with someone at the embassy who asked us why we wanted to visit Sudan and what our views of Sudan were. After a nervous chat he signed our application forms and told us to hand it in down stairs. WE paid a man $100 US each and were told to collect them at 2pm. Killing time we found an English book shop near by and bought the Sudanese Bradt guide as well as a book on Arabic women's life behind 'the veil'. I'm surprised how many women are wearing the full black veil, covering their hands and feet as well. I'd hate that.

Back at the embassy they made us wait until 3:30pm and issued our visas last. At last we've got them. It was too late for the pyramids again so we headed back to camp. I've had enough of haggling Cairo and can't wait to leave. Plus Bruce found out that his nice orange shirt never returned form the laundry in Alex, so now we are sceptical of everyone.