Day 46: Paraty
I don't think Paraty really liked us... Firstly the faff trying to get here from São Paulo and then once we got here nothing went to plan. We booked a boat trip (that served limitless caipirinhas!) around the islands... the morning we were to set off, the boat was broken. We went to find a beautiful hippy beach that everyone was raving about... we couldn't find it and then got chased by dogs. We planned to go for a walking tour through the town... they were on their summer break. Why, Paraty, why?! All we wanted to do was get drunk on a boat! Is that too much to ask?!
Instead we made do with a day on Jabaquara beach (with the odd tapioca pancake and Gorge de Amado thrown in) and an amble down dirt road to find a beach that was actually a 45 min bus ride away (Trinidade). On the way back we ventured off the path trying to follow directions we'd received (directions applicable to the town 45 mins away by bus) and went through the forest, and came across a house guarded by at first cute dogs. Then they ganged up on us. A bunch of individually non-threatening little fluff balls, but with their powers combined, a pack of yippy, narky dogs that did not welcome intruders. We calmly retreated and gave up on the beach hunt. Instead opting for some lunch followed by the walking tour (which never happened). We sat down outside a restaurant. And after being ignored and then rudely brushed off by the owner, we abandoned lunch too, opting instead to go home and get ready for the evening.
On our way back out the door, Leo (of Leo's Clan Hostel fame) apologetically told us the tour was off... so, with no plan and empty tummys we shuffled into town. Not knowing what to do, as nowhere was yet open for dinner, we spotted the G-crew! Fresh off the caipi boat, and steaming drunk. Fede, the new G-tour guide, despite being completely hammered, went on to give us his very own guided tour of Paraty and advised us in our plan making for the following day. What a pro. We parted ways with our drunk friends and went ourselves scouring for a glass of wine (following a bit of a nosey round the lovely shops) and then went for dinner. Absolutely starving by this stage, we had gone to the effort of booking a table for 6:30. Good thing too, as the place was completely empty. For the entire duration of our meal. Better safe than sorry I guess! We went to Brazil Thai which made a refreshing change. A nice hot fish curry, washed down of course with a caipi (if it ain't broke!).
There was a bit of organising to be done for the next leg of our journey. We'd need to get a bus to Angre dos Reis and take a ferry from there to Ihla Grande. Once we figured out our plan of attack we headed back to the hostel, slightly defeated by Paraty... not to worry, a lot more to come.
Accommodation: Leo's Clan Hostel
Weather: beautiful sunny morning, perfect temperature for sun bathing(and getting eaten alive by sand flies too!), about 26 degrees; water temperature approximately 15 degrees; balmy evening: could easily wear shorts and no jacket - AND THIS IS THEIR WINTER!