Day 48: Ihla Grande

After a super crappy nights sleep, listening to two drunk men snore in the bunks below us all night, we got up early and enjoyed breakfast on the deck, overlooking the beach. We inquired about changing rooms (I had to - I couldn't handle another night lying awake with murderous thoughts), so after the swap, we headed for the jungle, following a path bound for Lopez Mendez: the most famous and apparently beautiful beach on the island. It wasn't an easy trek! It would take a good five hours and the path wasn't always, well, a path, and it was very hilly too. So, in the heat of the day, it was pretty challenging. It certainly wouldn't be suitable for an elderly person or anyone with a difficulty walking. Having said that, there were a number of nutters walking it bare foot or in flip flops.

En route we had to traverse a number of beaches; each more beautiful than the last. We took a break on one to enjoy a (terrible) coffee and a coconut before trudging on through the heat. As we arrived Lopez Medez, there was a clearing in the trees and the crisp, sparkling sea reached out in the distance and the perfect white sand, fine like caster sugar, crunched under foot like snow. It was truly stunning. Absolute perfection.

We passed the afternoon there, in and out of the crystal clear water, enjoying this slice of paradise.

As the afternoon started to draw to a close, clouds started to form and we decided to head back. Rather than trek a further five hours back, which light would no longer permit anyway, we got a taxi boat back, of which there were a number, but only on the hour, and the last one departing at 5pm. It was now 4pm, and it would take a good hour to trek back to the other beach (part of what makes Lopez Mendez so special is it's relative inaccessibility. Boats cannot enter the bay due to the waves and currents, leaving it largely untouched and unspoiled).

We made it back to the beach, and the farcical journey home began. We were boarded onto one boat. There we sat for 20 mins before heading out into the bay. Before we returned to where we started, pulled up beside another boat and transferred over to this. We danced this dance a few more times; over and back on other boats, before eventually heading off. With only four passengers, we finally headed towards home. But Lynn and I had chosen our seats very poorly. The motor boat, driving at top speed, bumped hard over each wave, and Lynn and I, positioned in the centre of the boat, felt each one of those waves. Our arses were black and blue by the end of it. It was a white knuckle (and blue arsed) ride.

Slightly rattled, but happy to be alive, we disembarked. Walking like John Wayne we needed something to take the pain away. With only snacks to sustain us on our hike and our time spent on the beach, we were starving too. So, we found a lovely little cafe and sat out. I finally had my much sought after tapioca pancakes accompanied by a juice - a momentary break from the booze.

The evening drew in quickly after that. Between showers and naps, it was late evening before we knew it. We found a nice cheap, family restaurant with traditional food and ate our fill of assado beef before turning in for the evening. Very excited for our next stop and final destination, Rio de Janeiro.

Accommodation: Che Lagarto

Weather: 27 degrees and perfect blue skies - whoever told us this was not beach weather, was wrong, so wrong.