Day 41: Foz de Iguazú - Argentinian side

Today we would revisit the awesome Iguazú Falls ("Las Cataratas") from the Argentinian side. Given the amount to see, we were advised to allocate the entire day to it. So, we were to set off at 8:30am.

Lynn and I headed to the bus stop once more, looking for the bus marked, "Puerto de Iguazú - Argentina". We weren't waiting long when a bus turned up and just as we were about to get on, I realised I didn't have my passport! For all my organisation (including packing a lunch) I forgot the most important thing.

I ran back to the hostel and then back again to the bus stop. But I needn't have ran... It was at least another hour before the bus arrived (a very disturbing hour, as despite the daylight and the company of others at the bus stop, some sick, old man, was... "interfering" with himself - it was nauseating and deeply uncomfortable).

Anyway! When the bus finally arrived, we clamoured aboard. But we only got as far as the Brazilian border before being turfed out again. We got our passports stamped and returned to the bus stop. We had two options. Wait another hour for the next bus, costing only 5RL - which would bring us to Puerto de Iguazú bus terminal, where we'd have to wait to take another bus to the falls... Or take a taxi for 90 RL, straight to the falls... It was a no brainer for me!

A comfortable and faff-free taxi ride later, we arrived at the park entrance, and paid in (500 ARS/€24). After our arduous morning, we needed coffee. We were sat out in the sun when a fresh faced young man chimed up and started chatting to us. He was from Edinburgh, where Lynn's been living and working for the last five years, and of course she knew all about his school (he was on his gap year) and where he grew up - how many examples do we need of how small the world is?

We set off to take the little train through the park to see the Devils Throat - one of the most notable viewing points. Chugging slowly through the trees Lynn found yet more common company in a bunch of retired teachers - chattin' up everyone, so she was!

We arrived at the Devils Throat station and disembarked, following the well signposted route. Long walkways elevated over the wide and deep river brought us far from land.

We could hear them before we could see them: the thunderous din of the falls, as infinite volumes of water ceaselessly gushed over the earths edge, plummeting downward and crashing into the battered river below. When they came into view, I gasped. The power. The might. The force. Watching as the gentle green river flowed calmly to where the earth had simply exploded apart, in what must have been the most powerful and frightening seismic action; and then suddenly transform into an angry, white, frothy mass, that fell ferociously, until disappearing into the wet, hazy plumes of mist that burst upwards from the river below. It was mesmerising. We stood there in awe, transfixed by the sight, the sound and the wet, misty air that whipped around us.

The entire day was filled with awesome experiences like this. The beauty was transcendental. Reluctantly we pulled ourselves away from this view, we really could have watched that scene for hours. But time was not on our side. We continued on, discovering countless more breathtaking viewpoints and experiencing the falls in all their wonder. We followed a number of trails set out in the park; the blue trail ("Inferior") followed by the red trail ("Superior") and even managed to fit in a boat ride, which deserves a paragraph in itself, despite the fact it only lasted 15 mins.

We had heard about a boat ride which took you to the bottom of the falls and gave you a good soaking. I wanted that one! This "adventure" boat trip was being offered along the blue trail (550 ARS, if you're interested to know the price) and we came well prepared - we had actually packed bathing suits and towels! But as we watched people who'd been on the boat ride returning to the path, they seemed suspiciously dry. Second guessing ourselves as to whether we were being overly cautious, we shamelessly changed into our swimmers, shorts and flip flops. We climbed down the path to the boats, and joined the queue. Next to us, was a stylishly glad group of French people: I'm talking linen shirt, classic jeans, quality leather boots and hair, perfectly quaffed. Now we really felt silly. We were handed water proof duffel bags for our belongings, and those who had them, put on their ponchos. We were given our life jackets and we climbed aboard. The boat took a short spin around the corner to view one side of the falls, but we were barely touched by mist. We could see other boats venturing in much closer (and getting drenched in the process) and as our driver turned to bring the boat back to follow around the the other side of the u-shaped falls, I was miffed. We'd obviously booked the wrong boat. Or so I thought. After showing us the falls from below at a safe, dry distance, the boat men started suiting up. They could've been thrown over board and they would've remained perfectly dry underneath! The boat turned back around once more and returned to the first side. This time he really went for it. Lynn grabbed my hand, now soaked, and we both screamed as the boat went closer and closer, in under the falls! The deluge was heavy and blinding! As Lynn best described it, it was like being in a natural roller coaster! The boat felt like it had very little control - like it could have been sucked under - it was terrifying/thrilling i.e. so much fun! If I wasn't screaming, I was laughing. Everyone was thrilled! All passengers chanted for more, and a total of four times we were soaked under the falls. What a rush! We climbed off the boat, dripping with water. The ponchos - pointless. And then we looked around. Our stylish French friends, like drowned rats. Who looks silly now...

Totally elated by the incredible day that we'd had, we left the park with great satisfaction as the sun started to set. We bought a bus ticket and started to the long way home. It wasn't so much the distance as the rigmarole of getting there. First, a bus from the falls to the bus terminal in Puerto de Iguazú; followed by a bus to the Argentinian border for passport control; and then to be dumped at the Brazilian border and all the faff that would ensue thereafter. Fortunately for us, however, the bus driver took pity on us. When we reached the Brazilian border, as we disembarked he impatiently barked that he'd only wait two minutes, but then kindly assisted us filling the necessary forms at the border! If it wasn't for him, Lynn and I would have been abandoned at the Brazilian border in the dark - what a relief!

Back at Tetris, wet, cold, tired and hungry, there was only one thing to do: enjoy one final meal in Emporio com Arte. As we'd eaten so lightly during the day, we allowed ourselves to go all out. We arrived, and the waiters (come on, I think we can call them friends at this point) sat us on the veranda and we started making the tough decision of what to eat. To start, we shared a "bolinho de mandioca". This was a delicious, crispy, tapioca bread ball, the shape, size and colour of a medium sized potato, stuffed with cheese and sundried tomatoes - and was to die for. I had known what I wanted for the "mainly course" from the night before: "the special" - steak with a friend egg, served with panfried, crumbed banana served with a type of farofa. It was delicious. Lynn had duck, which she also rated highly. To finish (that's right, we're fatties) we ordered two of the most amazing deserts. I ordered pancakes, filled with guava jam and cream cheese (a combination known as Romeo and Juliet) and Lynn got the most decadent pudding - a sort of Eton mess with meringue, cream, ice-cream, pineapple and dulce de leche. Sweet Jesus, it was beautiful...

What a day. A wonder of the world and the meal of a lifetime. We were sad to leave Emporio com Arte, this beautiful restaurant with the most charming and sweet staff whose friendliness made the food taste even better than it looked. As we left, we made the point to personally thank the adorable owner Luis, who embraced us both as we said good night! What a sweetheart and what an introduction to Brazil.

Accommodation: Tetris Hostel

Weather: Clear blue skies in the morning, with occasional clouds; most importantly, enough sunshine for lots of magical rainbows and a pleasant amble around the falls.