Day 42, 15 August 2012, Madaba by night, hatching plans for Jerash - After a 2 hour, dead to the world nap, we woke up at 6.50 pm to head out with our guide Jurmelah to break her Ramadan fast. Went to a local restaurant, smelled the sweet smoke of the shisha pipes and enjoyed local food. Due to equipment just not being Hardie-proof, James was in need of new Jesus-shoes (aka. sandals) and we had a good look around the lights and action of night time Madaba - securing a beautiful pair of leather sandals made in Hebron. Nighttime is truly the time to be out and about, and as we walked past the church of St John the Baptist the priest was popping through a previously closed and locked door to get something and kindly let us in for a look - a very peaceful and serene place after dark. The local mosque was a feast of white and blue lights and we headed back to our hotel, Mosaic City - only to pass by the 2nd best restaurant in Jordan... Our guide had the gate opened just so we could peer inside the ancient courtyard home, now restaurant, and the Christian owners invited us in to listen to the music and enjoy the singing and dancing... Our first glass of wine in two months was a friendly Jordanian chardonnay served ice-cold - much cooler in Madaba because of altitude and Jordan seems cooler generally. We watched the men dance, the tables almost collapsing under the weight of dozens of plates and listened to the 3 piece band singing old arabian love songs. Chatting with Jurmelah we discovered she is from Jerash. We said - oh - the place with the ancient Roman ruins? As it turns out yes - One of the places we had been keen on going, but wasn't included in this tour. Well - plans were hatched, office and driver were called. The two members of our group who had bowed out of the evening due to sheer stuffed-ness were woken up and consulted when we returned to the hotel and the plan was hatched. Instead of a sleep in until 11 am (!!!! what were we thinking) we decided to go at 8 am for an impromptu side trip to Jerash - aka. Gerasa - one of the 10 main Roman cities back in the day (the "Deca-polis").