Lets go back to the planning for this trip, Estonia wasn't on the radar at all. It was only when we started looking at 'things to do in Helsinki' that we worked out one of the most popular excursions from Helsinki is in fact Tallinn….and I can see why.

Tallinn is only a 2 hour car ferry ride across the Gulf of Finland for the grand total of about 20 Aussie dollars each. A couple of Euro in a cab and you are in the heart of the old town. Being honest we could have walked, we walked out, but it was -10 and we weren't 100% sure of where to go.

What an old town. The vast majority of the town dates to the early to mid 1300's so its filled with 650 year old buildings, town squares and tiny cobblestone streets. Add in the fact we got one of our few sunny days so far and it looked stunning.

After dropping our bags off in our 650 year old apartment, with its own sauna….seriously, they built a sauna in the old chimney….the boys had fun with that later…..we have photos that will come out at their 18th!!!....lets just say they went 'traditional'….did I digress? Yes, back on track

We headed out to the restored section of the originally 1.9km long town wall that used to serve as the defence for the city. Only a few hundred metres of the wall have been restored so you can walk on it but it gives a great overview of the city, particularly from the guard towers.

Just walking around town was amazing, so many tiny little streets but ultimately we worked our way over to the Russian orthodox church on the southern side of town and the tallest tower on the southern side of town. The tower was so tall in fact the German speaking soldiers named the tower after what they could do from there…they could peek into everyones kitchen….remember in those days for fire preventions kitchens were separate and outdoor. Humorously, the term 'peek in the kitchen, in German is roughly……Kik in der kokk which is the name of the tower today. How much fun can two small boys (and one supposed adult) have with that!!!

After climbing the tower you can also tour the tunnels and battlements under the fort that have been used for over 600 years. More recently as bomb shelters for the 'inevitable' nuclear war. Our tour guide was our age and it was fascinating listening to her experiences growing up in the 70's and 80's under soviet rule, and the parallels and differences with our own youth.

In fact that is one of the things we are trrying to explain to the boys, that this country did not realistically exist until after we had left school. As we grew up it was the Estonian Soviet Socialist Republic, very much part of the USSR. It has only been independent since 1991, so at 27 years that's far longer than the 16 years of independence between 1918 and 1934….the only other time Estonians had self rule. You can feel the positivity when you talk to the locals. They are intensly proud of their country and you can see why.

Day 2 we went out to the Hotel Viru. From 1972 to 1991, this was THE place to stay for westerners visiting Tallinn, in fact it was the only place they were allowed to stay. That's because the KGB had surveillance set up on the top (23rd) floor of the hotel. They also wired the bar, restaurant and 60 'special' rooms with listening devices as well as flooding the room with KGB agents.

One night in 1991 the KGB left overnight and everything they left behind can now be seen on a tour from the hotel. Our guide had started working in the hotel in 1986 during the KGB era and was fascinating to listen to for her recollection of whet happened in those days.

On the door of the former KGB room is a sign in Estonian and Russian that states 'There is nothing here'. Its an in joke from the staff as during the KGB times, the existence of the 23rd floor was always denied. Even when you stood on the 22nd floor and could see a floor above you, you were told, 'there is nothing there'. If you asked to go up to that floor you were denied as 'from that height you could see sensitive soviet military sites'…..of course you couldn't see then from one floor lower. Really interesting.

Last stop was the Seaplane harbour. IN those few years of independence, 1918 to 1934, the Estonians had an air force of 'up to 21 seaplanes'. They were housed in the seaplane hanger but during the Nazi and soviet occupations it fell into disrepair. It had since been restored and a maritime museum including a full size submarine, lots of guns from naval vessels, a couple of tanks and aircraft.

While we were inside the snow started again which made for a cooler but impressive walk back into town. One thing Tallinn is not short of is restaurants. Plenty of good options and reasonably cheap. We ate well both nights on local cuisine, the second night while watching the snow fall in the town hall square, from inside of course.

By the time we left the next morning 1-2cms of snow had fallen to give Tallinn an even more magical look. It was one of our big travel days - Breakfast in Estonia, Lunch in Finland and Dinner in Russia…..that's the way we roll.

After breakfast we walked back to the Ferry terminal to pick up the ferry back to Helsinki, our third time here so far. Three tram rides in Helsinki to pick up some last minute souvenirs, and onto the central station to pick up the train to Saint Petersburg.

Just as travelling to Estonia was once unthinkable, we were pinching ourselves that we were abot 90 minutes from crossing the border to Russia. Growing up it was never even thinkable, but here we were. Fair to say there seemed to be more Finnish customs staff on the train than passengers until the last stop in Finland. They all jumped off there and the process was repeated in reverse at the first stop in Russia where the train was flooded with Russian officials. 20 minimum but probably a lot more.

More passengers appeared here. For some reason all the Russian locals spent the Finnish section of the trip at the bar, so were more than a little 'glassy eyed' when their passports were inspected. And the officials gave the a very thorough check, searching bags, lots of questions etc…..we got a cursory glance at our bags and waved through…..I don't understand some times.

Arriving into St Petersburg is something of a daunting experience. We sort of cheated and arranged an Uber from the station to our apartment. The subway would have cost us $4 Aussie and meant a 1.1km walk with packs in -8 degree weather. The Uber cost $3.52 Aussie and dropped us at the door. Seriously, $3.52 for a 15 minute Uber ride.

Saint Petersburg looks amazing - More in the next update….which will probably happen after we get back (but I will try to do it on the flight home.