In Mumbai now (although after training ourselves to use the new name, it appears no-one here does so we're calling it Mumbai and the locals are calling it Bombay!). This place is a massive culture shock - there's crowds and stalls on every street with people touting, taxis beeping, deformed beggars and so many tiny little homeless children begging you to buy them rice - which we've now discovered they give back to the shop for resale and get a commission for each 'sale'. Still heartbreaking though - and very hard to say no, but after about 50 times it has got a lot easier! Staying in a very basic hotel called Bentley's Hotel - but it has it's own ensuite with running (cold) water and is clean and central. The area we're staying in is called Colaba which is where the Gateway to India is, and lots of backpackers which probably explains why that's where all the full-on aggressive touts/sellers are!! Had a tour around town yesterday with our own driver (3 hours for about a fiver!) and came back with a much better idea of where we are...and a peacock feather fan, which we finally crumbled and bought from a gorgeous little kid called Ravi (who at age 8 speaks 3 languages!) after he 'guided' us around the hanging gardens (so called by the droll Brits as it was a favorite spot for locals to hang themselves...) We were very proud of ourselves this morning as we figured out which local bus to take to the train station to book our tickets to Pune (pronouned Poona) for tomorrow morning. Arrived sweaty but victorious...only to discover we needed our passports (which were back in the hotel) to book train tickets!!! So, it was b***** the 'backpacker' bit - straight in a cab and paid about 4 times the going rate for a return trip! Ah, well, it's all a learning experience!!! :o)