Despite some jobsworth at Santa Marta airport being determined not to allow us to board our flight due to a misunderstanding of immigration laws (on his part, worryingly), we said goodbye to Colombia and hello to Ecuador. Quito lies in a valley at an altitude of 2,850m - the surrounding mountains are far higher, so the views during the airport approach are outstanding. Unfortunately the altitude meant a strong case of dizzy head for the first day or so. Grr. Al...

With three nights left in Colombia, and after two sweltering nights under canvas with very basic amenities, we decided to treat ourselves to some creature comforts to end our journey. We headed for the backpacker magnet that is Taganga, and a hostel with air conditioning and a pool. I had reservations. Words associated with Taganga, aside from backpacker magnet, are party town and crime. I had a mini-Magaluf in my head. I could not have been more wrong. Taganga ...

Roughing it in the name of adventure. We packed small rucksacks with minimal stuff for 3 days, left our main bags in the hostel and set off for the Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona. This is a large (apparently privately owned) natural reserve on Colombia's northern coast, renowned for the incredible coastline, protected fauna (not that we saw anything but lizards and crabs), and a few minor ruins. Not for us the easy option of a taxi then a boat. Nope, that's che...

After the stifling heat of Cartagena we needed some beach time and so headed up the coast to the Santa Marta area. The ultimate target was the Tayrona National Park but we first stayed for a couple of nights in El Rodadero, a supposedly upmarket beach destination for Colombians. Erm. What to say? The town is inoffensively non-descript (previously upmarket would be a more accurate description), the beach pretty nice but nothing to write home about. But fine for a...

The first thing everyone says about Cartagena is that it is hot. And they are right. It is hot. Swelteringly so. It is not designed for English folk. Thank god we went for a decent air conditioned hotel just outside the old town. Money very well spent. Cartagena lives up to the hype. The old town is incredibly beautiful. It hasn't been completely renovated yet and so there is a mix of beautifully restored and still decayed buildings throughout. Top end restaura...