I am sorry for not updating yesterday, I am getting slack. I had such a busy day that all I wanted to do at the end of it was to collapse into my bed and sleep! So here is two days worth of blogging!

YESTERDAY (11th April)

So today I was feeling a little bit better, if not 100%. As I was, however, running severely short on time in Japan, I decided that my temporary physical condition could be forced to one side while I spent the day exploring. I was aided in this by the fact that the weather was superb! It was hot and sunny, by far the best day weather-wise since my arrival in Japan. Out came my sunglasses for their debut appearance of the trip, and off I went.

I started the day early, taking the short but pleasant walk through downtown Hiroshima to reach the impregnable Hiroshima castle. On the way I stopped briefly at a supermarket and a Japanese bakery to purchase some victuals for later on. As I made my way towards the castle, I stumbled upon a delightful secluded garden called Yuhua. Right next door to one of Hiroshima's main roadways, this small garden still retained a sense of calm and peacefulness, an idea completed by the quiet sounds of a rushing, miniature waterfall. I stopped here to sit in the sun for a few moments, before pressing on to the castle.

Due to the direction I was approaching from, I had to circumnavigate three quarters of the castles high walls and natural river moats. This was by no means unpleasant, as it meant a riverside stroll under the shade of autumnal trees. Once I had reached the main (and only) gate to the stronghold, and ascended the ancient, steep steps, I was treated to the sight of the tower rising majestically above a tree strewn open area. The Castle grounds were busy, playing host to a momentous crowd of people partaking of the traditional picnic under the cherry blossom trees while the colorful blooms were still in season. I plotted a winding course through the trees and ancient building blocks, until I ended up at the tower itself. Ascending the modern but steeps stairs to the top set me back 50yen, and was well worth it. On the way up, each floor hosts a variety of exhibitions about life in the castle, encompassing such diverse topics as defense and spiritual activity. My imagination was especially captured (no pun intended) by a section detailing how Japanese swords were made, which featured many examples of ancient Japanese weaponry. The level of workmanship put into these blades was astounding; I will never know how someone could make something as brutal as a sword look so beautiful!

On reaching the zenith of the tower, one was treated to spectacular 360 degree views of Hiroshima. As the day was so clear, I could see the outreaches of the city stretching away towards the dark green mountains on the horizon. I stayed up here for a long time, trying to imagine the area now covered by the city as it was a thousand years ago; a deep, glistening sea.

After this, I made my way back to ground level and joined the picnic goers by eating my lunch under a cherry tree. Refreshed, I decided to make my way back to the hotel, as I had no wish for my illness to come back in strength. I took a different route back, and on the way I came across the Hiroshima Museum of Fine Art. I stopped and decided to have a look inside, attracted by the fact that the building itself was a curiously shaped modern edifice, which contrasted nicely with the feudal start to my day. It was very nice inside, featuring a range of oil and pastel art pieces, as well as sculpture in bronze and marble. Impressed, I decided to stop at the on-site cafe and brought myself an Orange Juice, which cost nearly as much as the entrance fee. Still, if you are feeling rich and would like to get away from the tourist rush to a cool, calm art gallery, this place comes highly recommended.

After this distraction, I once again started back on my way home. Following my new route, I decided to take a short cut through Peace Park, the open and colorful area attached to the A-Bomb Memorial site. On my way through, I noticed a sign for a cenotaph that has all the names of the known victims of the bomb. It was free of charge, and so I thought that it might be worth a look. As soon as you enter you descend down some stairs to a calm and quiet memorial, a fountain in the center aiding contemplation with its barely perceptible tinkle. After this, you move into a room that contains several computer terminals that allow the user to look up names and pictures of the thousands of people who died as a direct result of the attack. There are also moving memoirs by survivors, who tell in their own words how events unfolded. This place is also worth a look, as one could become distracted by the more dramatic stories detailed by the museum and the A-bomb Dome itself, but this area brings home in a quiet and yet forceful way the true cost of that terrible day.

After leaving Peace Park, I made my way back to the hostel. As it was still light I took a place in the rooftop seating area to write a postcard home and also to work on a scrap book I am putting together of my time in Japan. I then descended down, intending to commit myself to a quiet night in, in order to get rid of my cold once and for all. On the way, however, I passed a noticeboard advertising Hiroshima's next baseball match and it so happened to be tonight. I had wanted to see the Japanese take on this American sport, and so could not resist. I walked to the stadium, brought a ticket and settled in for a long night. The game ran for over 4 hours, but sitting there supping on Japanese beer and badly imitated American popcorn, I throughly enjoyed myself. The crowd was really passionate about their chosen team, but in there was a refreshing lack of abuse for the opposition. Hiroshima, by the way, were heavily beaten by a team called the Dragons.

When I finally made it back to the hostel I was exhausted and promptly fell into a deep sleep; for the first time since I got to Japan I slept all the way through the night without waking once until my alarm rang to signify the new day.

TODAY (12th April)

Today was to be my last full, free day in Japan, as tomorrow I face the daunting task of traveling from Hiroshima to Sydney, Australia. I also had to leave my lovely, traditional private room and move into a dorm for my last night. This was because by the time I had worked out that I did indeed need a bed for the night of the 12th, all the private rooms were booked up. This is not a problem though, because the dorm rooms are very very nice, and at least it made me pack up my things properly, which will take the pressure off tomorrow morning.

I wanted to spend today on the Island of Miyajima, which is a 45 minute ferry ride from on a ship that runs from Peace Park. I left early, and made my way on foot to the landing point. The ferry journey was great fun as we smashed through the chop, and the scenery was very pretty on either side of us. On arrival at the Island, everyone was immediately attacked by a herd of wild deer! Over the years, they had developed the kind of attitude that pickpockets have, namely, they had worked out that the best time to strike was when a bunch of tourists get off a means of transportation! They raided us for whatever they could eat, but to be honest I think people would have given it to them anyway! This amusing side show over, I wandered off into the heart of this Island. Miyajimi is famous for being a untouched, religious area, and I found that description entirely accurate. There were shrines innumerable mingled in amongst the trees, birds and wildlife. I stopped to take some pictures of the famous Ohtorri Gate, a bright orange gateway that stands out in the waters of the bay with rumored mystical powers. I also struggled up many flights of stairs to get to the Five Storied Pagoda. The story here is that a famous Japanese general wanted to build a huge temple to appease the souls of dead soldiers, but ironically he died before it was finished and so it stayed as he left it, eternally stuck at the height of five stories!

With my sightseeing done, I turned back into the town itself to find food. Happily, I discovered a place that served Chicken Katsu Curry! If you ask any of the people I have visited Wagamamas with in Reading, you will know that that is the only dish I ever order. I have looked high and low for a real Japanese version, but until today had failed to uncover one. Needless to say it was on par with the Wagamamas version, which I reckon is a great compliment to the chefs at the Reading branch!

Refueled, I once again braved the rampaging deer and delved deeper into the warren of small back streets and market places, to see what I could find. Noting even more shrines, I brought a Japanese style desert from a market stall. This was a small piece of soft pastry filled with chocolate, and was a great end to my elongated meal! Finally, I made my way back to the coast and caught the ferry back to the mainland. If anyone who reads this ever comes to Hiroshima, definitely put aside a day for this Island, as it is beautiful and you will need a good few hours to get the best out of it!

I returned to my hostel in the late afternoon, as I wanted to settle into my new room (which is great!) and also start to prepare for leaving Japan tomorrow. I have really grown to love both the culture of Japan and the Japanese people, and the food is definitely a major plus!

One final note, I do not think I will be updating as much once I reach Sydney. That is because I intend to get a job and I doubt you will all want to read about that everyday. I will, however, update when anything out of the normal occurs, so please do not think I am neglecting you!