The next morning I woke early and headed to the public bus station to make my way to Ometepe, two volcanoes in the middle of Lake Nicaragua which make an island which people have settled on. One of the volcanoes is still active and the other is dormant. The lake which houses the island is the something like the 18th biggest in the world which is a pretty large percentage of such a small country. It also has the only popluation of fresh water sharks, which were bull sharks that have adapted! Anyway so as it was an island the journey was abit of a long drawn out process. The first stage was not been harrased and forced on to a bus, as they don't have buses like we do. A few people own a bus (an old american school bus) and they pack as many people on as they can and just leave when it is full. For this reason they bribe you and tell you anything to get you on their bus. So after fighting against the crowd I found a bus that was just starting to load up so I could get a seat for the 3hr plus journey and not stand with my bag. I got the bus with two Canadian girls that also wanted a seat! After this stage it was a taxi to the port, here after asking a police man I knew the charge would be just less thn $2 so when the men were insisitng on $10 dollars I managed to find another cab who realised I'd asked the police man and gave in to a $2 dollar charge. Once at the port I made my way over to the boat where we all loaded up the deck with various different stock for the island and things the islanders had ordered and set off. The boat was around 1hr 30 and then we set foot on the island. Once here I had to get two more buses before arriving at the farm I was staying at, which was recommended by a friend. On the first bus I had to stand and that took me to one town (as the island only has one road it was definitely not direct!) then from here I had to wait an hour to get the next bus to Merida where I was staying. This journey was slightly worse as the paved road disappeared and turned to mud and boulders. The driver and assistant also use the bus as a personal buisness. They take orders and cash off the locals, get the supplies from the ferry or main town and drop it off along the bus route. So this added alot of time stopping every few houses but was quite cute to see how the village worked together! After about an hour I was one of the last few on the bus at the end of the line and it was getting quite late in the day. The driver pointed me in the right direction and said it was about a 20min walk! I was not best pleased in the heat and the world's heaviest backpack! But luckily an american guy came and carried my bag half way as he was staying abit further up! This was amazing but he warned me that the road got alot worse for the last half. Once I left him I plodded on the ups and downs and just when I thought I must of missed the sign saw one which pointed further up the hill to the volcano! This was the uphil stretch...as it was now nearly dark I didn't have much choice but to keep going! When I finally got to Finca Mystica it was pitch black outside and I was exhausted over 20mins solidly uphill with my ridiculous backpack. When arrived Angela the owner told me noone ever does the buses and just gets a taxi! Now I know why! Anyway I showered and settled down for dinner and got to know the few others who were staying at the farm.

This part of the isalnd really was like stepping back in time to a medieval period. The roads were mud and boulder tracks, every settlement was a homebuild farm hut with pigs, chickens, horses, cows and bulls just roaming round the town. None were caged or in fields! People got around on horses or walking and everyone knew everyone! The farm that I stayed at was beautiful. It was owned by a young american couple who came to Ometepe about 3 years ago and built the farm from scratch. They use all the food they grow to eat and serve the guests and try to live as sustainably as possible. I was planning on camping here to save money but as it was muddy in the camping area Ryan, the other owner, put a double bed and fan in the cleared out store room for me! It was lovely! The food aswell was goregous and the whole setting was just so relaxing. The next day I just chilled out in the hammocks and started on some of the books they had. That day I read 3 books! Which totals more than I did the whole of the year before! When the others returned from their activities I began to decide what to do the next day. As it was a volcanic island the main physical challenge is to climb the volcano. Setting off at half 4 and walking for 8 - 10 hours! Although I kind of felt oblidged, after talking to friends who had done it I realised I had nothing to prove and the whole activity sounded horrendous. With the heat you sweated more than you ever had in your life, your legs burned all the way up, 4 -5 hours no break from the steep incline, muddy paths, at the top the clouds meant you couldn't even see much! Then on the way back the path was worse with feeling of falling all the way down. However some people who did it were glad and recommend it but after consideration I declined the challenge and booked to go horse riding around the isalnd. After another great nights sleep I got up and ready for the horse ride. Hari, the guy who had the stables, came to get me from the farm with his horses. For some reason Angela had gave him the impression I had loads of experience because I had asked not to just use the horse as a mode of transport to get up the volcano but to actually ride. This then made Hari bring me the horse with 'character' and 'personality' as he rarely gets experienced riders! As we established that my little experience from a young child was soley english riding and I had never done western he assured me I'd be fine. So off we went and made it down the hill back to the road where we gallaped straight away! I did love it though and we went out for 3 hours or so. We went to a view point half way across the island where you could see both sides of the shore and both volcanoes. It really was beautiful. We also saw lots of coffee, beans, sugar cane and other crops growing. Along the way we lots of monkeys and hundreds of butterfiles! On the way back we headed through the jungle and Hari used his machetti to chop through the trees. It really was a fun experience! Once back to the road we gallaped back and I found a new love for western riding. When we were back at the farm I jumped off with a slight John Wayne-esque stance and I went to get my camera! After a few minuets I was back to normal and showered before relaxing for the rest of the day.

The next morning I made my way to Moyogalpa the main port where I was meeting Lauren and her boyfriend. In the town they were having their patron saint festival. Here we went for dinner and drinks before leaving in the morning.

After a leisurely breakfast I headed down to the ferry and went back to the main land. From here I met a local who showed me the direct express bus, which was a pure luxary! Like a real coach for only 20cent more! After chatting with Carlos and about Nicaragua he got off a few stops eariler. I then continued to the other bus terminal to catch a bus to Leon, where I was meeting back with Louise. Here again you get grabbed straight from the bus and directed to another bus. This one however was a minibus and was direct to where I needed to go so I went along with it. They do however still pack you in so with my rucksack on my knee and crushed in the corner we set off on the 2hour journey. Half way through they always make a stop, at what seems to be their friends stall on the side of the road. The ladies come on and take your orders and give you your food or drinks (which come in plastic bags with a hole in to suck out the juice!). After this long process we finally made it to Leon. Here I got on a tuk tuk, and got ridden round to my hostel where I finally could shower and chill out. Leon, on a first impression, seemed a lovely real city. I'd heard it's one of the only big cities that doesn't allow chains and fast food companies to settle here and have fought MacDonalds and other companies. This alongside the lack of catering towards tourist gives it a rare and real city feel! After getting dinner I sat with people in the hostel and we watched a ridiculous central american sitcom about the dramas surrounding a chocolate factory and a secret ingredient! After this I read and headed to bed before Louise was arriving the next morning. I was ready to be back in city life!