So the 17 hour train journey turned into a 20 hour train journey and we began to wonder if our necks would stay in the sidewards postion forever. We finally arrived in Varanassi at 11am and jumed in a tuk tuk to take us to our hotel. Its now become a game that we lay with tuk tuk drivers, we choose the quiet guy at the back of the group of gaggling men, all pushing and shoving to be able to escort us. This tuk tuk ride was another one spent with our eyes closed as the driver wove his way in and out of traffic, using his brakes far more than we would have liked. We arrived at our hotel where the tuk tuk driver had warned us that it was 'ok' and when a tuk tuk driver says that, we should have expected it to be a bit shabby. Leaving the tuk tuk, we had a bit of a walk to the hotel. our first experience of Varanassi was a game of 'dodge the cowpat' which in flip flops and carrying an 18kg bag was eventful... We later found out that the majority of accommodation was a little less desirable, very high prices and low standards but I guess that comes with travelling to one of the most visited cities in India.

Varanassi was not quite the serene, peaceful and holy place that we were expecting. Instead it was crazy, dirty and full of scammers... think Delhi. Our first day consisted of a walk along the Ghats and getting lost in the labyrinth of streets. It was less than an hour in before we had to squeeze ourselves against a wall as a funeral procession passed us by singing and dancing in celebration including the dead body, covered in colourful fabric, carried on a stretcher brushing past our noses. This really is no exaggeration. The body was being carried to one of the burning Ghats which Varanassi is famous for and which the sight and smell of we would become very aquainted with over the next few days.

14th March

Today would be our one and only day in Varanassi. We had decided to change our train ticket and head to Khajauraho a few days early. We also had to change our train ticket back to Delhi as in our excitment of booking a flight down to the Kochi, in the south, we had booked it a day too early. Whoops! It turns out however, that all the trains are full and that we would have to try and get an emergency ticket (tatkal ticket) the day before we wanted the train back to Delhi. The control freak inside of me is dying.

We take a walk back up the main Ghats and spend some time watching a cremation. This might seem weird, but there are so many Indian passers by who do this after their day at work. We end up talking to a local who fills us in on the rituals and traditions of the hundreds of cremations that happen here daily: The families, once the loved ones have died, take the body down to the Ganges to be washed, also placing some of the water into their mouths as the body's final drink. The body is then taken back to the home where people can pay their respects before the cremation. On the day of the cremation, the body is carried as part of a procession, through the maze-like streets of Varanassi and taken to the burning Ghats where it is placed on the floor while the family prepare the fire. We had to step over a fair few bodies during our time here, where they had been placed on the path. The body is then placed on the wood and prayed for by a priest using more water from the Ganges. The family (only the men are allowed to attend) are not allowed to cry as this will revent the soul rising to heaven. More logs are placed ontop of the body and then it is set a light. The body takes about 3 hours to burn and eventhen it has not burnt completely so they place the body in the Ganges for the fishes to finish off. Most bodies are cremated this way unless you were a pregnant woman, under the age of 11 or had leprosy or smallpox when you died. In these cases the body has a large rock tied around the waist and is chucked into the Ganges without burning. Aparently if you are in these catagories, your soul has already risen to heaven and there is no need for a cremation. The whole process is strangely peaceful and we sit watching for almost an hour until the wind changed and we become concerned that the ash blowing in our direction contains parts of person. On our continued walk, past more burning cremations, Carly spots a leg hanging out of the fire.

Now, as it is the lead up to Holi festival, we are well prepared for the increase of coloured water bombs being flung our way.We were excited. We've seen Karl Pilkington, we know what to expect. What we didnt expect were the vile children we were to encounter today. On our walk along the Ghats we were approched by some children asking us for money. We refused, as usual and continued with our walk. A few minutes later, I was hit with a water bomb,it only took me a few seconds to realise that it wasnt the usual coloured water bomb that had been landing at our feet, but a water bomb filled with water from the Ganges mixed with cow dung. I guess they had to find some use for the sheer amount of the stuff which is piled around the town! Needless to say I wasnt happy. The little sods even got Carlyon the way back too.

15th March

Up at 5.30am for our sunrise river tour of the Ganges. We are more than careful when steing onto the boat! The tour lasted for an hour and the sunrise was spectacular. Really beautiful. cue to me having almost as many sunrise pictures here aswe did in Angkor Wat. After sunrise I spent the rest of the tour having a field day taking photographs of the day to day life of the people of Varanassi which starts and ends at the Ganges. Body washing, clothes washing, cow washing and praying. It all hapens here. And as much as we have disliked the general atmosphere of Varanassi, it is at this moment that we can see just how spritual this place is. Onwards now to Khajauraho. We had to pay 400 rupees extra to bribe the conductor to get us seats. Another night train, this one for 14 hours, I'd hate to clock up how many hours we have spent on night trains and buses over the last eight months, but in India alone it has been a total of 6 days...