I don't know if I will ever get caught up on writing these. Arose early to be down at breakfast at 6:30 and ready to leave at 6:45 for the shuttle from the hotel to the boat. Unfortunately there were more people than the shuttle could hold, so about six of us were left behind. We were told there would be another shuttle. I had been told by some people I had met that there were some bad places to sit on the boat, so I knew if we arrived late we might be stuck sitting next to the engine. The hotel manager told me had called ahead and reserved me a special seat. Well, the shuttle returned at 7:10 for the 7:30 boat departure and it was just about a twenty minute drive. And, sure enough, the front row seat was reserved for me. While driving to the boat, I was surprised to see a very large rehabilitation center for spinal cord injuries.

This was the slow "tourist" and locals boat between Battambang and Siem Reap that I decided to take when I cancelled my planned trip to Banteay Chhmar, a remote temple, which would have included a home stay after learning the road had been washed out with the floods and access would have been difficult. The boat ride itself was fine and provided close ups of the villages along the river and the people's activities. It was colorful and photogenic, but, in reality, we were witnessing severe poverty. Just as with the boat trip from Chau Doc to Phnom Penh, all of the children we passed were so friendly. They all wave and shout "Hello." I even saw mothers take the hands of infants and have them wave at us. In between the villages, the area appeared to be very flooded as far as the eye could see. I have no point of reference, but know that in the low season there may be areas of the route we took that are not passable by a boat and need to occur on land. There were many birds in the flooded areas, a few egrets, I think, and some others that were difficult to identify from afar. In the front row seat on the other side of the boat were two Cambodian women, the two locals using the boat for transportation. One of them spoke incessantly in this loud nasal voice and it was so annoying. Finally about ¾ of the way, we went into a small village and dropped off her and her various packages including a large propane tank to be used for cooking.

Once we got to the landing, I was met by a tuk-tuk driver from my guesthouse, Prohm Roth. There were two women from The Netherlands sitting behind me who had not booked a place to stay. I told them where I was going and they decided to check it out (and ended up staying here). So the three of us piled in the two person tuk-tuk with our luggage (they had big backpacks) and drove about 10 km into Siem Reap.

The guesthouse is nice with all the basic things one would need. After checking in, I wanted to go to the Angkor Children's Hospital for a visit. I had been in contact with the director (who is off on a trip to Bangkok), but he sent me an e-mail last night assuring me I would get a tour from the assistant director to be arranged by his secretary. My guesthouse provided a tuk-tuk to take me to the hospital. When I arrived they didn't know anything about this, so I had to pull up the e-mail from Bill from last night on their computer. The assistant director, the surgeon came and showed me around the hospital which has 30 in patient beds, medical and surgical, a 4 bed intensive care unit, an ER, an out patient clinic, two ambulances, and a place for physical and occupational therapy. I met the radiologist and the German medical student doing an elective with him. The hospital is building a new ophthalmology center. The week's OR schedule was posted, mostly inguinal hernias, a PDA ligation, and a few I&Ds. Medical admissions were primarily for sepsis, although there was one admission for hemophilia and two for problems related to thalassemia. Anything really complicated is referred out to Phnom Penh if the resources are there or, if non-urgent, until visiting specialists, generally surgeons can come. Children with cancer really aren't treated; Dr. Preakha told me they had recently had a child with a retinoblastoma that had surgery and then recurrence in the other eye and that today he had done some biopsies on a child who had presented with what appeared to be a dental abscess and had an abdominal mass. No TPN is available. Families pay a nominal charge for outpatient visits (75 cents). Medication is free. Hospital care is either free or a very low charge. The hospital has its own blood bank. There are a number of community mobile clinics. There is an area for families to cook their own food. There is a dietitian and play therapist on staff. I saw the children involved in play activities. The facility appears to be completely supported by donations and was founded by a very wealthy Japanese individual. It appeared as if what was being done was being done to a very high standard and that this hospital is provided a great service to the community, but it was what can't be done that makes this hospital so from those in the U.S. Children with cancer have very little to be offered, for example.

After leaving the hospital, Sinat, my tuk-tuk or as they are known in Siem Reap, moto-remorque driver, took me to the place to buy the temple tickets, located on the main road to the temples, but several kilometers out of Siem Reap. As instructed by all available internet and guide books, I brought an extra passport picture, but as it turns out, that has not been necessary since 2008. Instant picture was taken, I forked over $60 for the 7 day pass (7 days in a month which I will need for my days and my upcoming time with the group), and got the pass. Then we went on to Angkor Wat for the sunset per recommendation of Meang at the guesthouse. I wasn't actually at the main temple and there was nothing special about the sunset or viewing it from where I was. Back to Siem Reap and time for dinner. The guesthouse is on a quiet street, but just a block away from the main tourist area of Siem Reap. The woman I met from Mexico was pretty accurate when she compared it to Playa del Carmen. The area really comes alive at night, with many bars and restaurants. There is one block with one stall after another serving Khmer barbecue and a person in front of each trying to get you to eat at their place. The streets are lined with "tuk-tuks" and one cannot barely take more than one step without being accosted by one man after another, "Madam, do you need a tuk-tuk?" It gets old very fast! Shops are open late and down the street is the Old Market, lit up with neon signs, that has souvenirs and art objects. I found a place to eat, Khmer Kitchen Barbecue, had chicken amok, a sort of mild curry dish, and then back to the guesthouse for a shower and sleep. Plans included arising early the next day.