Hi everybody!

How are you all going? Well, I had a somewhat better day yesterday than my first day. Still a few mix-ups and mistakes, but all in all, more good than bad. I am trying to upload some photos at the moment. I dropped my camera in Singapore and broke off the little bit of plastic that holds in the battery. I can still take photos but when I'm transferring to the computer, I have to hold the battery in place. I will get it fixed when I return to Aus, hopefully underr warranty. Mum, Anne's money belt that she lent me also broke - the zipper fell off in Brisbane airport, so I bought another one there duty free which has been invaluable. Can you please let Anne know on Sunday and I will pay her back the money for it when I get home. Thanks.

Well, yesterday I had a fairly slow start to the day. I didn't leave the hostel until 11am. I caught an auto to Mylapore. I asked to be dropped off at the Basilica of San Thome. I don't know where I got dropped, but I couldn't find the basilica or any of the other temples I wanted to see. I wasn't too concerned though. I saw some really nice buildings, like the train station and Government Complex. I then walked into this street which was like leather heaven. I saw a shop which had a sale on, so I went in there. It was a fixed price shop, which is always good for the travellers like me! I then went into the next shop and saw THE most beautiful leather bags I have ever seen. I was really regretting buying one in the first shop, but I bouht another one anyway. They are very cheap by Australian standards. The one that I bought was just over $50AUD, but man it is nice! I love it!

I then caught an auto to Marina Beach. Now, everywhere that I read says that this is the most beautiful beach, and the second longest beach in the world. After seeing the gold and sunshine coasts though, it didn't even come close! The water was very dirty, and it was about 1km out. And the whole way out to the water, there was markets. I bought so much stuff! It was very cheap and I saw lots of stuff which would make nice gifts, so I thought why not. I got stopped three times for photographs by people who were amazed with my white skin! I got 'henna' put on my right hand. It is sort of like a tattoo, and lasts two weeks. I will try to put a photograph on this site later. When I finally made it out to the water, this lady asked me for money for a charity. I don't know whether she was genuine or not. Probably not, but I gave her 15Rs (4oc or so) and got a receipt. If she wasn't real, not a great loss for me. It is very hard to know who to trust.

After more stares on the beach, I headed back along a different way, with no shops, back to the road. Because my henna was still drying, I couldn't use my right hand for anything, and all of my bags were extremely heavy in my left hand. Then there was this group of uni students. About 3 girls and 10 or so boys. The girls gave me a smile and hello, the boys came up and asked to shake my hand and my name. I chatted with them for a while. I am the first white person they have EVER seen! They were all around my age. It was good to meet them and their excitement just made me laugh. They had a camera which they took photos of me with them all with, and then I gave them my camera to take a photo too. I am very wary pulling out my camera here - noone in India owns a digital camera. The upper middle class people are lucky to own a 10-year old, film, brick camera. The boys really enjoyed looking at the photo of themselves straight away on the digital screen. Again, I was showed how privledged we are in Aus. They then gave me their email addresses to email them the photo of all of us.

After a few more encounters, I finally made it back to the road. I am staying in Nungambakkam, but on pronunciation, the g is silent. So I asked an autorickshaw driver how much. I gave him the address. He said 200Rs. I said 100Rs. He wouldn't go below 150Rs, which I didn't like, so I walked away. THe next man was exactly the same. 150Rs. I thought that must be the going price, so I got in. I don't have my bearings at all in this city, and because I didn't come straight to the beach from the hostel, I had no idea how far I was from the hostel. Once I was in the auto, he begged me to go into this shop, so that he could get 200Rs commission. He said, no, just go in for two minutes and don't buy anything. As if. The shopkeepers wouldn't pa him so much commission if I wasn't exected to buy. He begged and begged, but I said no, just take me home. He was unhappy with me. Half an hour later we got to our destination. I told the man at the beginning of the trip Wallace Garden, where I'm staying. So he stopped and asked lots of people where it was once we were supposedly in the right area. No-one knew. Eventually, one man worked it out for us. We were in Nundambakkam. I'm staying in Nungambakkam. And both the g and d are silent. Ever so slight different pronunciation. Go figure. So he had to take me right back to the hostel, 3km from the beach! GRRRR!!!!! I still believe that he was partly to blame. He knew where Wallace Garden was when he got here, so I don't know. Anyway, I gave him 170Rs. He was very unhappy, but I stuck to my guns and didn't give him anymore. I know it was a long way, but he knew where Wallace Garden was. Earlier in the trip, he said that he could take me to Mahabilupuram, which is a little village 1 hour south from here. He could take me down, spend the day there and come home for 800Rs. That is about $24. He was going to come to the hostel and pick me up. I said no, I hadn't decided whether I wanted to or not. He kept pushing, so I said I would give him my number and he could call me to see whether I wanted to come. So I did. I gave him my number, but without the prefix, so I highly doubt he will be able to get through. I'm so stupid though. Looking back, I can't believe that I gave him my number, but it is so hard when you are put on the spot. These people don't take no for an answer, and if I didn't give him my number, he said that he would only turn up here anyway. It is very hard. Regardless though, I have learnt my lesson. I will not give my number to anyone. I just have to be strong and say no. If he does manage to work out the prefix and get through, I will say no. I will not go with him, and I will not give him any more money. He wanted more money for yesterday because of the stuff up. But no!

When I came inside, I chatted to the couple who I said were from the UK. I actually got that wrong. They live in a boat and just sail around the world! Sounds pretty awesome, but I don't think it is the lifestyle for me. She was saying that there always has to be someone awake. During the night, they take turns watching for other boats etc for 3 hours each. I would hate that! No more than 3 hours sleep! Ever! And they would never be able to sleep holding each other or anything. Yuk! Being here by myself, I miss so much having people to hug and hold. Anyway, I used her skype account to call Mum. We chatted for 15 minutes, totalling 30c! I'm just about to make up my own account. Mobiles cost way too much!

When Bindu and Claire came home, we decided to go to Spencer Plaza. Shops here don't shut until 8 or 9pm, so we went shopping there (rather like Grand Central only heaps bigger). THe auto there cost 30Rs. Why can't I bargain like Claire does? She is so firm and strong! Grr! I didn't buy anything, but I am going to go back today. I have my eyes on a sari or two, and they have beautiful Christmas cards in a shop there. We had dinner in the food court. Bindu had a burger, Claire and I had Indian again. It was still very hot! And again I ordered buter chicken, supposedly not hot at all! I also got a milkshake, but my milkshake craving has well and truly gone after tasting it! Doesn't even come close to Aus standards! In total, it cost me 65Rs. That is less than $2. Coming home, we couldn't bargain an auto below 40Rs. On the fourth go, we just got in and came home.

Back here, Claire went on the net and I chatted with Bindu in our room. I am so glad that I'm staying in a dorm. We talked for hours about cultural differences. It was very interesting. Marriage was the biggest thing that surprised us both. Pretty much all marriages here in India are arranged. Muslims meet their partner at the wedding. Hindus are allowed to get to know their future husband/wife before marriage, but have no choice in the matter. Once you are married, it is for life. But, if you cannot have children for instance (infertile), the elders get very angry because you won't carry on the family name (as if you had choice in the matter). In that case, she said that they will go to extreme lengths to separate you so that the man can remarry and have children. Most people in here don't know of such a thing as love marriages, they are shocked that you can marry for love! And divorce? Unheard of.

I feel so sorry for her. She is 22, and is due to be married anytime now. She says with tears in her eyes that she wishes she was born in a place other than India. There are so many restrictions. She has never tasted beef. Her parents decide everything for her. Her brother is in the US, she is hoping to move over to be with him. As she is still studying though, she cannot work (not allowed to in India) so cannot afford to move for a few years yet. She couldn't believe that Australians work and study at the same time.

Well, I think that is all for now. I hope you are all doing well. I love you lots and am missing everyone!

Love always,

Melody