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09/08/2010
Wow- what a good night's sleep is worth! There is something nice about staying in a hotel on the odd occasion, the breakfast here- whilst ridiculously expensive (15 euros!?!) was very nice, excellent for a long day out in the town. I am surprised I felt my first bout of traveller's sickness today: kept feeling like I was going to be sick, maybe it is the change in air, food- I don't know?!? But the food, climate and air quality is all starting to feel suddenly a lot more like home since I've been in Austria. After a late-ish morning start, we meander around the Old Town (I do like just wandering around pretty places) we found Mozart's birthplace again (and took a better photo minus rain clouds) alongside the home he lived in, we checked out the Marionette theatre tickets: got to be done. Perhaps something to do tomorrow night if we get back from Linz early enough? We also went into the Cathedral: very beautiful frescos (my new word of the trip!)- but doesn't compare to some of the amazing Catholic and Orthodox churches in Poland with the gold leaf alters and frescos, or the Lublin Holy Trinity chapel- that was something else, or indeed the salt mine chapels: basically Poland is very good at Christian places of worship! Regardless, this was very beautiful, had a coffee and a bit more of a meander before eating the apples we stole from the hotel breakfast (come on, 15 euros for breakfast!!! You'd steal fruit too, I'm sure it suggests this in the lonely planet traveller's tips guide) in the Mirabell Gardens.
This afternoon we went our separate ways, mum went to the castle whilst I went on a tour of the ice caves. WOW! This was spectacular! The whole group was pretty young, mainly around 25-30ish and a small group of 14, the tour guide was young too and new-ish to the job so really enthusiastic. The whole tour was through Panoramic tours and I must say the best tour to date. You know a good tour guide if they start talking from the outset and try to talk as much on the journey to disguise the length of it- he was very entertaining, and funny- which helps (name- Ati, I think?). We went through the tunnel under the alps and came out on the Mediterrean side (the South)- we ascend about 1,000m in the coach, then walked 20 minutes up, took a cable ride, then another 20 minutes walk before entering the caves at around 1658m high, 700 steps up the most beautiful naturally formed ice caves and we reached 1768m up in the air (not far off 3000ft)! There is no electricity in the cave so you walk along with water-formed gas lanterns and when there is a spectacular to view the guide uses a magnesium flare to light up the cavern. Once at the top, it was another 700 steps to descend and exit the caves. Inside the caves there were large "ice giant" sculptures formed by the wind and layering of ice, the guy who discovered the caves also had his urn with a memorial not far from the top. Most of the guys in my group were from the US or on the bus around- Australians are everywhere in Europe, everywhere! But, a shot glass and t-shirts alongside other memorabilia in Salzburg will remind you that "there are no Kangaroos in Austria"- but perhaps it is only ex-President Bush Jr who needs to remember this [Check out youtube if you are not aware of his famous visit to Australia- this is brilliant].
We were apparently extremely fast at going up and through the caves and even faster at coming down, but self-confession on the part of myself, the Aussies and US couple was that the bar was at the bottom of the first descend. There were beautiful views from every level, but I am really impressed that I managed to get through the caves, in darkness, in claustrophobic spaces, up very high and also in the cable car- I am usually scared of all of these things- I was a little- but soldier on and wow- it was so worth it. I feel like my body clock has slowed down to about 1/10000000th of its usual rate: there is something about being that high up in the alps that makes you just slooow down completely and relax- beautiful!
We got back to Salzburg pretty quick, Ati even took the effort to give a bit of info on the city's outskirts, to give people a soothing wakeup call and to shake everyone's hand as they left the coach. Met mum in the gardens and we went for an Italian pizza: even though I did feel so relaxed, waiting 30 minutes after asking for the bill was taking the piss just a little bit- so went in and asked for it, oooh how the girl who was waiting on us was scorned by her colleague. Back at the hotel again now, this is really a million miles away from hostels and busy Capital cities- but a nice break, back to doing work again tomorrow so early start, it has been a nice day and ½ doing little.
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