Adventures in Borneo
Day 79 to 93 3rd March to 18th March

Ok, so I may be getting a bit behind on keeping you all up to date on my adventures. I will try and get Vietnam, Malaysia and Bali up to date at some point. I am now in Oz so I'm sure there will be plenty of time to kill on long bus journeys.

Borneo, what can I say? An actioned packed 2 weeks that's for sure. I had a couple of days to kill in Kota Kinabalu before my intrepid tour started. If I thought I had experienced humidity before it was nothing compared to here. After a pretty bumpy flight I arrived late and it was dark, not always easy in a new place but the taxi man found my hostel on the busy Gayla street. I tried to ignore that the stairs had a questionable smell, but once I got to my room and got the AC going I felt much better. Tomorrow I would explore.....

Day 79 Thursday 3rd March Kota Kinabalu

At 5am I woke to the sound of fire crackers going off outside my window. I would later learn that this was the wake up call to clear the starlings out of the trees in the street. I was up and out at fairly early doors trying to beat the heat. After an unsuccessful walk along the sea front and getting stuck in the smelliest fish market it was already 90 degrees at 11am so I took refuge in the shopping mall and went to the cinema. Saw The Finest Hour. Would definitely recommend it, unless you are going on a boat or cruise soon. For lunch I went to El Centro, no 2 on trip advisor and was delighted to find humous, falafels and all my favourite dips so had a sharing platter to myself. It was nice not to have greasy rice for a change!! Spent the afternoon planning my Great Ocean Road tour with the lovely Miss Skelton as it will soon be here! For dinner I treated myself to the no 1 on trip advisor Chilli Vanilla and had a delicious lamb morrocan stew. Loving the food in Borneo so far!!

Day 80 Friday 4th March Kota Kinabalu

Today I got a boat to the island of Manuka about 20 mins from KK. It probably should have taken longer, but the captain was obviously in a hurry or wanted to see if any of his passengers would fly out of the boat as he hit the waves at break neck speed. Made friends with 2 nice English girls who gave me the low down on the area and we spent a nice day on the beach swimming and snorkelling. After reading the reviews on trip advisor I was expecting a dirty crowded beach, but it goes to show you can't trust everything you read as is was lovely and clean and had about 50 people on it. The boat ride back was again another bone shaker so we all got over it with Bogof rum and cokes at El Centro. :)

Day 81 Saturday 5th March Kota Kinabalu

Today was the first day of my intrepid tour but we weren't meeting until 6pm. Got up early to climb the 250 steps to look out over the city. Then went to check in at my nice hotel, I was going to make the most of having a nice room. We had a welcome notice for Choloe Graves (guessing that was for me!) I was a bit early but met someone else in the group who had just arrived from the UK but her bags had not arrived so we went out for lunch. At 6 I met the group, gave my travel insurance information (should I have been worried?) then went out for a meal. This I had to cut short as I needed to go to the mall and buy a wooly hat, gloves and warm trousers for climbing Mount Kinabalu. It's safe to say I had not really studied the trip notes before I left the uk, I didn't think it would be cold!!

Day 82 Sunday 6th March Dunsan Village

After feeding the stray cats at breakfast we were off in our mini van to our home stay in Dunsan Village. From here we had a beautiful view of Mount Kinabalu. Well some of it anyway as the top was obscured by cloud, and we were going to climb this beast! We were all split up into different homes. Think our group lucked out as we had a delicious lunch of rice, chicken curry, and aubergines in the most yummy soy sauce, must get the recipe. There was a little bit of a language barrier with our 'Mamma' but her youngest daughter, Jaspinga who was 12 spoke fluent English which she loved to practice with us, I felt like I was being interrogated!! She took us for a stroll around the village where chickens, cows and dogs were all roaming freely. The village shop had a wooden pallet for a front door and opens when needed. In the afternoon we all went for a jungle trek. Little did we realise this was a test for how we might cope with our mountain hike. I have to say I was beyond soaked when we returned from our scramble up and down the country side and I had drunk 1.25L of water in the 2 hours we were out. Borneo is hot!! I didn't really take in the scenery either as I was concentrating not to fall down one of the hills. We were rewarded with a trip to a waterfall which was super for a dip but I might of well have just jumped in as the local kids took delight in splashing and soaking us. We did have to go over an Indiana Jones style bamboo bridge over the river to get there.
After the best cold bucket shower ever, we were invited to the village hall to watch some traditional dancing and we got to have a go on the bells and bongos. I got the important job of banging a steady beat. Dinner was in the hall and all the homestay families had prepared the delicious feast. I filled up on my favourite aubergines. Worried I would offend if I didn't have some local rice wine I took a tiny portion (and left most of it, errrrrh!!)

Day 83 Monday 7th March Mount Kinabalu National Park

Woken up to the sound of cows, dogs and roosters I discovered I had provided a great feast for the mosquitos with 8 lumps on each arm. The is the worst I've been bitten yet :(. Breakfast was fried noodles and fried sweet potato cakes. I never thought I would miss cereal so much, but it was very tasty. We then drove on to Mount Kinabalu National Park but stopping on route to buy snacks and supplies. We were told there was not always water at the top so I had 6 litres and plenty of chocolate milo nuggets (officially an energy snack so I didn't feel guilty).
The afternoon was ours to fill so went to the Botanical Gardens. Worst gardens ever! I was definitely robbed of my £1 entry fee as I saw no flowers or insects, just plenty of weeds!! However we were all pleased when we found out we had been upgraded from our dorms (as there was no water) to some fancy lodges, though I later discovered I had the creakiest bed, even breathing set it off!!
In the evening we had our last briefing on the climb and were all given information sheets on spotting the signs of altitude sickness. It was too late to back out now (I had bought my hat and gloves!) but I was definitely getting apprehensive but I couldn't toss and turn in bed as I kept everyone awake!!

Day 84- Tuesday 8th March. Climbing Mount Kinabalu. Day 1

It was an early start and I hadn't slept well. I really did not feel like climbing a mountain! Met with Deedee who was going to be my porter to carry my 14kg (9kg was just water) up and down the mountain. He cost me £36 for the 2 days. Easily the best money I have spent on the trip so far. He charged 14 ringetts per kg (approx £2.50). However up and down the mountain we saw the workers carrying supplies to the top and back down for only 5 ringetts (90p) per kg. They all flew up and down, even the man I saw carrying a small fridge! I also hired 2 walking poles, who became my best friends for the next 36 hours.
At 8.30 am we were driven to the starting point, Timphon Gate, already at altitude of 1,866m, just another 2,229m to go then, to the summit of 4,095!!
Somehow I ended up at the front of our group for the first 2km (km 1 -2,039m and km 2- 2,252m). It actually wasn't too bad. I was already loving my sticks to pull me up the steps. I then hung near the back to take in the view and look at the plants and foliage, already a million times better than the Botanical Garden yesterday, stuff was actually green. At 11.30 we reached the 4km stop for lunch. I don't know why but I was expecting maybe some picnic tables but it was just a small hut and loo, again with no running water :(. I as starving though and tucked into my packed lunch.
The last 2 km to Tarran Rata, the lodge were definitely a lot tougher. It was boulder after boulder to climb over and the altitude was ramping up. I had a mild headache but I think this was more from the energy I was using rather than the altitude. At 5km (3,001m) we were in the clouds which was pretty cool but there was no view to look down upon. At 2.30 after 6 hours of pretty much constant climbing we made it to the lodge. The view from here was incredible as the clouds were breaking up and you could see where we had come from and where we were heading tomorrow to the summit. I had a nice cup of tea and a banana muffin as a reward. Unfortunately there was no running water, it was due to come on at 4.30, but after waiting patiently it did not come on so again, freezing bucket shower :(
Dinner was at 5.30, last briefing was at 6pm and I was asleep by 7.30, ready to get up at 2am to climb the last 2.5km to the summit for sun rise at 6.15 am.

Day 85 Wednesday 9th March - Mount Kinabalu Summit Climb - Day 2

So at 1.45am, Oswald our tour leader was hammering on the door to get us up. I really didn't want to! Not wanting any of the fried noodles and French toast laid out for breakfast I found a pack of Nairn biscuits I've been carrying since home. They got me to the summit!! Wearing 5 layers, hat, gloves and head torch (thank you Elise, felt good using it for the first time not for reading!) we had a photo and we were off into the pitch darkness. 2 minutes later and 100 steps up I was ready to pass out I was so hot! Taking off some layers I felt much better and we headed on. I was at the front of the group again (I don't know how this keeps happening!!). Unlike yesterday when our group all stayed together, in the dark, and with other people over and under taking us we got split up into 2/3 groups and I was in the first. I wanted to slow down to another group but also didn't want to get lost in the dark! I stupidly thought 2.5 km wouldn't take that long (stupid I know) but it was a long hard slog with constant stairs up. Then when the stairs finished it was time to grab onto a rope and pull yourself up shear rock face. Give me back the stairs! This is where I reached my wobble point, anyone who knows me, knows arm strength is not my strength! Thank god for Billy our guide who dragged me up. He wasn't even holding on to the rope, he looked like he was just out for a stroll. Relieved I made it up the first rope I could of cried when there were another 2. However by the last one I was definitely 'Red Ross' and pure anger got me to the top of it. Thinking that must be it, we must be at the top, we weren't and we could still see little twinkling head torches miles ahead of us. At 4.15am we made it to the last check point. No turning back now. It was amazing to look up and see the stars that were so clear and felt so close and look down and see the lights of the sleepy town below.

We had made good time, but to be on the summit for sunrise we had to keep going. At 8km we were at 3,929m it was still steep and my calves were burning so much I had to walk backwards for a bit. Some of the group were getting a really bad headache / altitude sickness. I was feeling ok, I just wanted to get to the top, where I could now see the head torches in front had stopped. To get to the summit it was one more rope climb and then I was there!! 4,095m!!! Sunrise was just coming up and the sky was a beautiful red with wisps of cloud coming up over the the peaks below us. I was glad of my 5 layers now. It was freezing with an icy cold wind. Below us we could see the rest of the group arrive. Ozwald came up to join us, we watched the sun rise and had our photo taken by the summit sign. He did not want us to spent too much time up there, not the best place to be with risks of earthquakes so took a few more photos and then headed down.
Having come up in pitch darkness I really enjoyed the view on the way down. I appreciated climbing in the dark now, as it didn't show what a shear drop it was, especially on the rope sections, so much easier in reverse!! Ozwald also pointed out how the summit view has changed since the earthquake in June 2015. This killed the son of our lead guide, along with 15 other climbers. So sad, but he told us he has so much love for the mountain he will continue to climb it.
It took 2.5 hours to get back to the lodge where I devoured 3 rounds of French toast, I was starving!!! It was so nice to take my boots off as my toes were getting sore. Did some stretching and had a 10 minute lie down. Then our first group was getting ready to climb down. I decided just to go as I was worried about how slow I would be so I found Deedee gave him everything but my sticks and off we went.
For anyone who has done the 3 peaks or a marathon will know how my legs wobbled like bambi and how sore my feet where. But I had to do the 6km we had climb yesterday in reverse. It should have been easy but it took over 4 hours and I didn't even stop for longer than 20 mins in total. Thank goodness for my sticks is all I can say they were my best friends. I had forgotten even though it was only yesterday how horrid the boulders were between km 6-4. At 2km to go I was in the 'Danger go faster Area'. Nope, I will just go slow thank you as I was over taken by porters carrying 20 kg each. Someone with a sick sense of humour put 14 steps up to the finish line, I felt like a drunk person before I collapsed on the benches. Though I was really tired I was also feeling the biggest sense of pride. I had done it!! And I never want to do it again!!!!

Got some lunch as we waited for the others to come in to the sound of applause and then we drove off to the pouring hot springs for the evening and where we would relax the next day and soak our aching limbs. There was a hot shower, but first I had to pick the gecko up with my fingers and toss him out. Oh how I changed since I was scared of one in the bathroom in Thailand. :)

Day 86 - Thursday 10th March Pouring Hot Springs

Today was hilarious as we all walked like chickens with our aching limbs. Before soaking for the afternoon in the baths we visited the worlds biggest flower, the Raffesta????

It was quite pretty but the smell and the flowers crawling all over it spoilt it a bit. Had a nature walk and then walked across the tree top canopy. Then we hit the sulphur baths that had been built by the Japanese in WW2. I was feeling at least 80 years old. I want to say the baths had healing properties but even after soaking for 2 hours I didn't really any better. But at least I didn't have to walk very far that day.

Day 87 Friday 11th March kinabatangan Billet Jungle Lodge

Still all walking like chickens I think we were all glad of the 5 hour bus journey to the other side of the island to our jungle lodge. The roads took me back to my free massages in Laos but the views of all the palm trees for the oil plantations were very pretty stretching as far as your eye could see. It was easy to understand now why the habitats for Orangutans were becoming endangered.
It was a boat to our jungle lodge and then after lunch we went out for our afternoon cruise. We were lucky to see a wild orangutan, though he was a bit shy and it could have been a man in a suit for all I could see with the sun in my face, loads of Probiscus monkeys (the ones with the silly noses), I got some great photos of a mother and baby in a tree, Maffia Monkeys - don't look directly at them or show the, your teeth or they will attack you, long and short tail Macque Monkeys, snakes, monitor lizards and the eye balls of a crocodile (we had all been warned not to out our hands in the water).
In the evening we had a jungle walk all kitted out in our wellies and leech socks. Luckily it was very dry so they weren't really needed. It was fun but we didn't see loads, a king fisher, mouse deer, frogs and lots of spiders!!!

Day 88 Saturday 12th March Sandakan

Up early for 6am river cruise. Again we spotted loads of monkeys and lots of eagles and birds. After breakfast it was back in the boat to the bus and a stop off at the Gomantong Caves. I gave these a miss as I don't really agree that the nests are gathered for Chinese medicine, plus I didn't really want to get poo'd on!! While we were waiting we were chased by an angry Maffia Monkey until the manager threw some fire crackers at it. He just wanted to get in the wheelie bins for some lunch.

We got into Sandakan for a late lunch after passing the best roundabouts ever, my favourite was the crocodile doing a thumbs up. I was a bit worried about being here after it popping up on the Foreign Office website and we had been told by Intrepid to stay together. However it was fine. We visited the museum which was pretty terrible except for a display on Olsa and Martin Jonson who 'discovered' Borneo in the 1940/50s taking animals back to NYC which unfortunately just died in the winter climate when they arrived (I don think they were that smart). Then even though our legs were still aching we climbed the 100 steps to the English Tea House where I had the best glass of Pimms ever and a scone. This was definitely the best view of Sandakan looking out over the gardens and sea (the rest was a bit of a dump to be honest).
We had a roof top dinner with cocktails and then ran back to the hotel. It was bonus day for me so nice to be able to celebrate. Well done everyone, 10% toot toot!!

Day 89 Sunday 13th March - Turtle Island.

Packing an overnight bag we headed down to the jetty for the 45 min ride to Turtle island. It was pretty bumpy and we didn't understand how Ozwald fell asleep but getting a selfie with him filled the time. The island is definitely the prettiest I have been to so far and the Phnom Penn under 18s didn't turn up so it was nice and quiet. We spent the day on the beach snorkelling where I saw more in 30 mins than all of my dives in Cambodia, including Nemo and a massive translucent fish with a black spot, and a sea snake (sorry again Bel for mentioning it).
At about 5pm we went down to the hatchery where little turtles were scrabbling out of their eggs buried inthe sand (still in their nets for protection) climbing all over each other to get to the ocean. We would let them go later.
After dinner it was a waiting game to be called to the beach. We filled this with the name on your head game. There was no way I was ever going to get Lady Gagga, but surprisingly I got Stalin (nice try Eoghan!!)
Then about 10.30 we were called to the beach where there was a massive turtle just finishing laying her eggs. It was really special thing to see. I even saw the turtle crying her salt tears. Then we all got covered in sand as she kicked sand over her eggs. We then went to a different side of the island to let the hatchlings go, that were let go from a shopping basket. Poor little things were so exhausted as they had been scrabbling about all afternoon, some didn't move. We got to help them though. They were so small and almost furry. We were all proud mummies when they had all made it into the ocean. Good luck guys!!!
What a day, definitely one to remember from this trip.

Day 90 - Monday 14th March to Sepilok Orangutang Sanctuary

Back on the boat at 7am to the mainland passing the floating villages. It's hard to imagine what happens to these shacks when there is a tropical storm. Picked up our luggage and were bussed to the Sepilok Orangutang Sanctuary before it opened at 9.30. Well planned intrepid! The first feeding was at 10am so we went to get a good spot on the viewing platform. Not long after a man with a bucket of fruit and leaves arrived you could see the ropes begin to move and then the gentle giants swung in. I didn't realise before that Orangutang means 'man of the jungle'. They were so human like in their eating. Apparently they are 96.6% the same DNA as us. Some naughty Macque monkeys turned up and there was some frivolity. We were really lucky to see a mother Orangutang with a baby clinging on, come up on the platform.
I then went up to view the outdoor nursery for the little rescue ones swinging about on the ropes helped up by the trainers. Some looked really nervous. I was gutted to learn I had missed a big Orangutang following my group on the boardwalk.
After a cup of tea (well ice cream) we went across the road to the sun bear sanctuary. I'd seen some already in Chiang Mai but it was great to see so many and in their own environment. We were lucky to meet the founder who had spent most of his life working on the protection of these beautiful animals. He lined up a telescope so you could zoom right in and see their features. There were so many of them sleeping in trees or foraging for food in the bushes.
After lunch I skipped a visit to the Probiscus monkey sanctuary having seen so many in the wild and went back to the Orangutang sanctuary for the second feeding, a video on the sanctuary and another visit to nursery. I don't think I will get board of watching them. I sponsored Beryl for my nephews to help protect these beautiful creatures. Turtles yesterday and Orangutangs today. This trip is fantastic.

Day 91 Tuesday 15th March back to Kota Kinabalu

Breakfast was one to remember today. Minding my own business putting my toast in when a Orangutang came in and stole the bread off the table next to me. There are no gates around the sanctuary and I guess this one knew where he could get an early snack. Then he walked straight passed me and swung up into the eaves to enjoy his breakfast. It was pretty unreal. Then the Rangers came and walked him off hand in hand to the jeep (while he was still eating his bread).
On route to airport we stopped at the Sandakan Memorial, which is a garden and museum to recognise the thousands of Australian, British and New Zealand soldiers who were marched to their deaths by the Japanese in WW2 as they were forced to walk across Borneo carrying supplies or building air strips etc. The stories were horrific, similar to those of German concentration camps. It was very moving, with the gardens still containing the rusty artillery.
It was then on to the airport and we were back to KK in time for 5pm cocktails, so I took everyone to the only bar I knew for specials on margaritas!
We went out for our last group meal and I was nominated to give Oswald a speech. People laughed so either it was funny or I was bad. It was then off for a boogie and Jeppe to bust his moves on the dance floor with the best fish hook and shopping trolley I've ever seen!!

Day 92 Wednesday 16th March KK

Everyone started to depart today. It was sad our little group was splitting up but I've met some great people who I will hopefully see over the next few months in the Great Oz.
It was also a bit stressful as I realised my credit card had been tapped. May bad things happen to you who spent a small fortune in Munich!!

Day 93 Thursday 17th March
My last day in Borneo. I think the last 2 weeks have caught up with me as I didn't managed more than uploading photos and repacking. It was strange that when I was going to bed Karla was getting on her plane to meet me in Bali. It's time to say goodbye Malaysia I've had a fantastic time, here I come Indonesia!!!