Siem Reap Day 36 and 37.

Crossing the border was an experience.... It cost $35 but it basically costs as much as they feel like charging that day. I had to stand outside a hut and hold my passport under a blacked out window and wait for someone to take it, which after a while they did. It was a 10 hour drive to Siem Reap which felt longer as the road had been washed away in the last wet season. The landscape was not as pretty as Laos and we saw a lot of woodland being burnt down to make land ready for farming. There were also less animals wondering the roads which had become a familiar, comforting sight in Laos.
Arriving in Siem Reap about 5pm it was like being back in Bangkok: traffic, lights, bars, bikes and people. Stepping out of the van the humidity hit me. It was ridiculous. Still 32 degrees and by the time I checked into my room I was about ready to pass out. I thought the extra $5 for air con was a wise investment. However I only had to cross the road to get a decent mojito for $1.75. I had to get used to another currency, riel. Everything was normally priced in dollars but if your change was less than 50 cents you got paid in riel. It was a bit strange when you got change in 2 currencies and I had to keep my wits about me not to be ripped off.
The next morning we were up and ready at 5am for our tut tut to take us to Angkor Wat for sun rise. We had hired a driver for the entire day for only $20, so between 4 of us that was the deal of the day! It was a bit odd lining up for my entrance ticket, I had to have my photo taken. It looked more like a mug shot as I was still half asleep! Then we followed the crowd, we couldn't really see where we were going. We found a good spot on some stairs and waited. It was very momentous, watching the towers of Angkor light up. Unfortunately it wasn't the best sun rise as it was cloudy but the sky was pretty. It was only when it was light could you see that we were on an island and how busy it was with tourists and pushy vendors trying to sell paintings and guide books. I think I have now perfected the 'don't even try face'.
We explored Angkor for a couple of hours and then went on to Ta Prohm (the one with the tree, think it was in some movie????!), Ta Keo which had a fantastic view from the hike to the top and Chau Say Tevoda. The drive round itself was just enjoyable as there was so much to see and detail on the bridges and gateways. This was all before 10am and then we headed back to the city for 'brunch'. I knew I would flop if I stopped so I went to the war museum. I wouldn't really recommend it. I didn't learn much about the war but I did see lots of burnt out tanks and lots of guns, so it was a quick visit. It wasn't until the end I realised our guide had a false leg as he had lost it stepping on a landmine as a soldier in the war.
The afternoon was spent back at the temples, exploring the Bayon and waiting to get a ticket to the top of Bakheng temple to see sunset over Angkor. It was a bit stressful as they only let 300 people up at a time and despite being 2 hours early for sunset we still had to queue. It was very pretty though when we made it. I felt I had seen the best that Siem Reap had to offer, it had been a packed day.

Battambang (homestay) Day 38

Meeting my new Stray Group which included Fred (81) and Shirley (79) who were on their 3rd tour with Stray around Asia I felt better about being too old to be doing this. They were great fun and had lots of good advice to share. We arrived in Battambang about lunch time to have a walk by the river. This lasted about 4 minutes before I wanted to collapse with the heat. It was then onto the Bamboo train. This was hilarious fun as it was basically a bamboo pallet, powered by a small (but noisy) engine and went about 30 mph but seemed a lot faster as there was no roof or sides or anything to hold on to. I know 2 little train mad nephews who would have loved it. The down side was there was only one track so at various times we had to get off, remove the train and then put it back on again. After the 4th time this got a bit tiresome but also we were running out of petrol so the engine got harder and harder to start! We were definitely running on the smell of an oil rag when we chugged into the station.
We did a quick stop at a stationery shop for gifts for the school at the homestay before we went to drop off our luggage. In comparison this was a 5 star homestay compared to Laos, Western toilets and a shower!!! Friends, I have changed as to what I find a luxury......
The visit to the English speaking school was great fun. The children were so friendly and were so pleased with a pencil and a note pad I had bought. I was nominated to 'teach'. A bit on the spot this consisted of animal noises and the English names, maybe I won't give up the day job but I did get lots of smiles.
A quick stroll around the market I passed on the opportunity to try a cooked chick in an egg - this is probably the most unappealing delicacy I have come across in an Asia.
At the homestay the guests were in charge of making the spring rolls. You could definitely tell which fat ones I had made :). Our host made us a delicious fish Amok, the traditional dish of Cambodia. It was delicious and served in a traditional banana leaf. The beers were $1 each, I should have hopped off here!

Sihanoukville Day 39 & 40

Stopping at the local school for 5-16 to see the assembly and flag go up, were then on our way. It was 10 hours to the beaches at Sihanoukville, which I was so excited to get to as I've never been on holiday for so long without seeing the ocean! The journey went pretty quickly and at 5.30 I was enjoying a mojito on the sand. Unfortunately the place did not live up to expectations. We were at Serendipity Beach and it was dirty and trashy with lots of cheap bars and clubs and we were consistently asked to buy cheap sunglasses or bracelets.
The following day we got a tut tut to Otres beach which was much nicer and less crowded. The sea was too warm, my only complaint :)
The best thing about Sihanoukville was the stone fired pizzas, about 12 inches for $5, yummy!!!

Diving on Island of Koh Rong Samloem Day 41 to 44

I had hopped of the stray bus again, and enrolled on a 4 day open water diving course. The boat ride there was 2.5 hours, made worse by the fact that we were going out in high winds. Now I like to think I have good sea legs, I've done Dover to Calais on the worst of crossings but this was something else and a lot wetter when the waves came over the side! I decided to forgo the complimentary tea as it was too much of a burn risk and I had to hold on.
I was thankful to get on dry land, until I saw the Dive shop dorms (the less said about this the better). However it was a beautiful setting and I met some lovely people, Alice in particular who saved my life on more than one occasion and was fantastic at getting rid of my cramp mid swim! Our teacher Fab from France was probably the most chilled out person I have ever met, and the heaviest smoker :(
It was an intense 4 days. Day 1 and 2 consisted of lots of dvd watching and tests and then practice in shallow water on the beach (this is normally done in a swimming pool) but we jumped straight in at the shallow end. I had no appreciation as to how heavy the equipment was and how hard it is to walk in it (and not look like a total ass - definitely failed).
Day 3 and 4 were 2 dives in open water. Getting back onto the boat with equipment on, not fun! On the first dive I made a small, stripy friend who followed me for about 10 minutes and it kept swimming around my leg and hiding. We also found Nemo and his mum and dad. The hardest part I found was taking my mask off under the water, putting it back on and clearing it. It didn't help my confidence that I swallowed a lot of water but I did it and I now have my Padi certificate with a really unflattering photo. Here is to diving in Bali and Aus and hopefully not having to take my mask of under water again!! I was sad to leave the beautiful island and head back to the main land for one night, but the wood fired pizza made it a little easier to bear!

Kampot Day 45

Meeting my new Stray Group and bumping into veterans Fred and Shirley again we headed to the riverside town of Kampot. I wish I had hopped off here for a couple of days. It was a pretty French style town, very chilled. Following a tip from Alice I went to the Woman's only spa (where it supports woman in hard times) for a little TLC after 4 days of hard work diving. It was set on the river and the treatments were good (and very cheap) and lunch should get a mention, humous oh how I have missed you!!! At sunset we took a boat ride down the river to spot some fire flies. They were pretty cool (but could have been Christmas lights as a rouse ???!) it was an excellent night for star gazing and I saw 3 satellites zooming across the sky. Our tut tut driver who took us for dinner had lost one of his eyes when helping to clear land mines from after the war. He was a very keen to practice his English with us.

Island of Kor Tunsay (or Rabbit Island) Day 46

We stopped at the fishing port of Kep to see the fresh fish market, shrimps, crabs and cat fish a plenty, where things are starting to ramp up for Chinese New Year celebrations and then we caught our boat over to the Island. It was pretty remote, no wi fi and power only ran from 5 to 10pm. I shared a bamboo hut on the beach complete with bucket shower. It was pretty chilled out until the under 18s football team from Phnom Penh turned up with their tents and bbq. It was still really pretty and with rum cocktails on the breakfast menu, my sort of place. I enjoyed an hours Aloe Vera massage on the beach for $9 while watching sun set, it's a hard life. For dinner I enjoyed the fresh shrimps and red snapper, ordered as a starter and a main, but this is Asia so it all comes together :).

Phnom Penh Day 47 and 48

Today was going to be a tough day as we would learn about the Cambodian War and Genocide. We were encouraged to watch the killing fields movie on the bus which I did. I had never heard of it, but I now need to google who the actors were as they look very familiar. Our first stop was at The Choeung EK Genocide centre, which is one of the 100s of killing fields in the country. I can't write anything that anyone will want to read, it was atrocious. I think the hardest part was knowing it was only 40 years ago, no one intervened and Pol Pot was not immediately dealt with but received support in exile, including from the UK.
Next stop was the S21 prison in the centre of Phnom Penh where people were tortured for being educated, wearing glasses or just because. They were then taken to a killing field but most did not make it there. I think the mug shots of all the victims will be something I will not forget, most smiling as they had no idea what fate awaited them.
It was a really tough day and cocktails didn't really help.
I had to say goodbye to Coco, my tour Stray leader who I had started with in Bangkok. That all seems such a long time ago.
The city of Phnom Penh did not have many sites to visit on day 2 so it was a pretty lazy last day in the country of Cambodia, it was on to Vietnam tomorrow.