As the bus meandered its way through the outskirts of Arequipa, I fell in love instantly with the landscape. Lush green fields and majestic volcanoes towering in the background. Friendly locals toiling away in their little patch of paradise, harvesting fruits and vegetables to sell at the markets. As we progressed into the city, my heart rate increases dramatically and my stomach sinks; fast paced, people everywhere, chaotic Lima driving, poverty down every other street and that familiar scattered rubbish design that invades most of this country. This is my home for the next …..however long ….. God help me.

My quaint Spanish hotel provides some relief and while I am hungry after 14 hours on a bus where I was not brave enough to try their food (mainly because it looked worse than plane food) I feel like I don't have the energy to cope with the stress of finding my bearings and negotiating a meal. As many well-seasoned travellers told me before I left NZ, sometimes you just want to stay in your hotel room and cry. Tonight was one of those times.

But, I put on my 'big girl panties' and venture out to the surrounding street. I manage to find a pizza joint a few doors down from my hotel. I order a takeaway by pointing to the menu and then pointing out the door (note to self … learn the Spanish word for takeaway). Much to my relief, she seems to understand and enters no further dialogue. The next day, following a stern talking to myself in the mirror, I brave the safety of the hotel to venture to the city centre.

What an amazing place. It's crazy and chaotic yet romantic and beautiful. The historic district in central Arequipa feels like stepping back in time to a Spainish wonderland. Cobblestone paved laneways twisting their way in and out, huge stone buildings with ancient gigantic solid wooden doors and beautiful wrought iron work, carrying so many stories and secrets. Wandering through the plaza and the parks, my soul is filled with happiness, watching couples in love on benches or in the nooks of the buildings, not afraid to kiss and cuddle in the sunshine or the moonlight. No one is yelling at them to 'get a room' or 'ew gross mate'. It's sweet and romantic, not awkward or shameful. Maybe because it's so common, or maybe because they are a romantic people, either way ... this is their normal.

The rubbish truck drives around the streets playing happy music that reminds me of Mr Whippy. Is it subliminal messaging about the joyfulness of dealing with rubbish properly? Young guys wander around the city, jumping on and off public transport, with a guitar and Madonna headset, playing and singing Spanish tunes for donations. Their voices are perfect and I don't know if it's because they are singing in a language I don't yet understand, but it all sounds so sweet and uplifting. The Christmas decorations are up, tasteful but simple. Banners in red and green pave the historic walls of the Plaza de Armas. A gigantic manger scene is set up infront of the Basilica - when I say gigantic, I mean to scale people But the fun of Christmas is also highlighted in the cheeky little elves hidden up in the trees and the everchanging neon Christmas tree, fully equipped with a Peruvian Santa cheerily calling out 'feliz navidad' to one and all. Live music and a short firework display lights up every evening as 2017 draws to a close. Local families and tourists come together in the Plaza to relax and enjoy this special time of the year.

As the days pass I am feeling more and more at home here. I venture to find a kiwi owned bar I'd heard about but discover it's closed. I resign myself to heading back to the hotel for a quiet night in. On my way back I stumble across a bar owned by a guy from the US and his Peruvian partner, they tell me the 'Kiwi Corner' bar has been closed for about 4 months and the owners are trying to sell it. While I chat to them over a craft beer and burger, some foreigners came over to introduce themselves to the girl at the bar with the funny accent. It turns out one is the director of an English Language School here in Arequipa and the others are some of his teachers. We have a great chat and he gives me his contact details explaining that if it doesn't work out, or I'm not happy at the place I've signed up for, to give him a call. Not bad, haven't even started my new job yet and I have another offer - yah for networking in a bar! The teachers stay on and we drink and chat late into the night.

A few days later and 2 women from my teachers training course, also allocated to Arequipa, finally arrive. The first thing we do is a chakra clearing massage. Wow! Hard, even for me, to find words to describe this 80 mins of heaven. A local Peruvian lady sweeps away all the stress and negative energy from my body with her soft hands. She then realigns the 9 chakra points using ancient Inca traditions passed down from her ancestors. It was a deeply relaxing and spiritual experience. I walk out of there feeling lighter and freer than I've felt in my last 20 years on this planet - hoy estoy finalmente libre.

I move into the teachers' residence where I'm flatting with a fellow Kiwi and an Aussie who has been teaching here for 4 months. My fellow Kiwi (we'll call her Sue …. because that's her name) and I launch straight into an induction programme with our new employer and we begin 1:1 Spanish language lessons with our supervisor. I can now say the alphabet and count to 20. Not particularly useful immediately but it's best to start with the basics I guess. Hopefully within a month or two I will be able to half decently order food and negotiating taxis without so much stress!

Sue and I have managed to find 2 top quality coffee houses and have become good friends with the owners - mostly because she is teaching them how to make a long black. If your gonna have great coffee in Peru you might as well have it the way you like it right! While my Cappuccinos are amazing, the Americano just doesn't cut it for her. So, we've played them youtube clips and they love learning it. Then, once mastered, they'll be able to put it on their menu. "You are welcome" future Kiwi's and Aussies that visit this little slice of heaven.

Due to the holiday season, unfortunately (or maybe fortunately) my classes won't be starting till 8 Jan, so I have 3 weeks holiday to fill up. Sue is disappearing into the Amazon for a week and while I would've loved to have gone with her, health wise I am still on shaky ground. The thought of another long bus and plane ride and then 3 days in a hammock on a boat right now just makes me want to hide under my bed. The altitude here has hit me harder than I expected, plus I had a bout of food poisoning just before leaving Zorritos that I have never really recovered from. Being a stubborn kiwi with a 'she'll be right' attitude has its drawbacks people! My friend from the US finally convinced me to go to the doctor, so lastnight I gave in and spent 5 hours in a local A&E being pumped full of fluid and medicine. Not my finest hour. Fortunately, my friend speaks fluent Spanish so it was a lot less stressful than it could have been for me. Although …. I cringe now at the thought of him having to translate intimate and unpleasant bodily functions to the doctor - especially the part where the Doctor goes 'so what consistency and texture would you say the diarrhoea is'?

Kill me now!

Anyway, my plan for Christmas is to stay put, rest up and do touristy stuff, getting to know my new city. The other teachers tell me that once you start working 6 days a week, you don't feel like doing much on your day off. Then before you know it you're moving on after a few months here without doing some of the basic Arequipa attractions.

So, lastly for 2017, a big fat Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all my lovely friends and family! May 2018 bring you everything you hope for, including exciting adventures, good health, good friends and much love.

Catch ya all in the new year! xx