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We set off for round 2 with the most confusing train system in the universe and somehow we managed to find our way through the scramble of irrationally coloured lines and maze-like stations, emerging in the LED rich electric area of Alhibara station. After a short walk we ended up exactly where we wanted to be, outside Ruogoku, the sumo stadium, and by some stroke of luck (genius) it was a fight day! The whole place was packed, with no hope of getting a ticket but there were sumo wrestlers literally everywhere, wandering down the sidewalk, getting into cabs, even riding bicycles, all wearing dressing gowns, carrying handbags and twice the size of me!
When we'd finished ogling and taking sneaky photos without being noticed we continued to pick our way through the small oasis of Yokoamicho park where artists painted the still water, delicate bridges and ancient trees. In their backdrop was the slender spike of the 634 metre high Tokyo Skytree, a lattice of steel shooting out of the surrounding concrete jungle like a germinating spear and also our next target.
We had a lunch of noodles and dumplings in the food hall before zooming up to the 350m high viewing platform from where Tokyo was spread out like a map. With the sun shining, and excellent visibility, we could just make out Mt Fuji on the horizon as well as some of the notable landmarks in the city, most amusingly a large golden 'dropping' sculpture on the roof of a much smaller building between us and the river. Safely back on the ground we treated ourselves to an icecream and it was quite an experience. Having chosen from the extensive menu the maniacally happy twins serving us massaged our selected cocktail of icecream, fruit and biscuit on the cold slab between us, whilst singing a speedy duet and clanging their scoops as percussion instruments at regular intervals. We emerged at the foot of the tower rather dazed but the icecreams were sensational!
With the icecream wiped from around our mouths we headed to the old part of the city at Asakusa, mimbling along Nakamise shopping street gawping at the array of crazy food and Oriental eccentricities purveyed by the charismatic storekeepers. We ended up in the relative peace and calm of Sensoji Temple, and its 5 tiered pagoda, where incense hung in the air and we learned our fortunes from shaking the boxes of sticks and drawing the relevant fortune card from the hundreds of wooden drawers surrounding us. The gardens were tranquil, with an inordinate number of koi carp traversing the waterways over a mint of thrown coins. After a circular route through the old part of town we were back on the train and after a whistle stop change into evening gear we headed back out towards Shinjuku, the skyscraper dotted business district.
To work up an appetite for our eagerly awaited supper we climbed to the 45th floor of the Metropolitan Government Building and gazed out at the sparking 360 degree nightscape which surrounded us. With blood sugars teetering it was make or break when we challenged the vending machine for a sugary stop-gap. Fortunately our prize fuelled us to start the hunt for supper but with our stomachs complaining we descended to almost deserted streets and empty restaurants. We noticed some lights and activity away to our right in the Electronic district and so, in a last ditch attempt to find food we headed that way, in the knowledge that MacDonalds was beckoning.
We were just about to give up our hunt through the tight network of lurid alleys when we found a buzzing sushi restaurant amongst the washing machine salesmen and seedy bars. We were shouted unanimous greetings from all the busy chefs as we entered and sat down at the counter with some trepidation. A cacophony of noise and foreign ideas lead to an eclectic selection from the menu but it was fascinating to watch the chef in front of us prepare our order as we drank our green tea. It was swift work, as he periodically looking up to shout greetings or farewells as the door banged before finally reaching over with our platter.
We devoured the collection of raw seafood, presented beautifully in its rolls, wraps and tempura, followed by the obligatory miso soup, and loved the whole experience. We left, having farewells shouted at us as the doors closed and picked up a hot chocolate and cookie for the train home (entering the station through Takes***a Entrance). We collapsed through the door, falling asleep immediately, and I tried not to dwell on the fact that my laptop was bleeping and showing the grey screen of doom...
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