A:Mick had organised yet another wonderful day for us exploring the stunning Amalfi Coast, stopping at Positano and Sorrento and Amalfi as well as a few quick stops along the way. While we usually try to avoid this kind of thing, one of the stars - and major frustrations at times - of the coast is the narrow, winding and scenic road that connects the major towns. There was no way we wanted to drive. Even if we were feeling brace, the driver wouldn't be able to see the views, and trains just don't cover the territory. So bus it was.

Giovanni was our guide and driver and his commentary was in Italian and English. He had only five of us for the day and this was a very agreeable and friendly group. We really admired his ability to concentrate on the narrow and windy roads while telling us about the area. He was a superb driver and clearly experienced. He told us that he dreads having to do this trip in the summer when the roads are clogged because of international tourists but also Italians ,who prefer to drive. "Italians love their cars" he said more than once. At the end of the day he thanked us for being an easy group, which I think we were.

Along the way Giovanni showed us lemon/ orange trees , ie in one tree! And there were lemon and orange trees all the way - by the roadside, in gardens, in orchards, and even in the centre of roads. Of course, you could buy every type of citrus products known to humanity - people selling fresh juice, limoncello, lollies, soaps, pasta, risotto, Christmas tree decorations, even torrone. We weakened on the juice at one viewpoint, and on some torrone and jellies.

Way back in time, the inhabitants built towers along the coast for protection against the invading Saracens and there are many of these still in use today on promontories all along the route. One has been turned into an exclusive night club called Africana Famous Club and has a glass floor for dancing. It is very popular. Others are private homes, B and Bs, hotels and the like.

Giovanni showed us a beautiful home belonging to Sophia Loren and another to the film producer Zeffirelli. They were empty as are most of the fine homes here in winter and many are inhabited for only a short time each year. (And there are many beggars in the streets of most towns we have visited.)

The three towns where we stopped - Positano, Sorrento and Amalfi - are clearly geared up for tourists, with hundreds of metres of shops, restaurants, cafes, B and Bs, hotels etc. Today was probably the last day of tech Italian Christmas holiday period, as well as being the Feast of the Epiphany, an Italian holiday, so not everything was open. I did spot that lemon nougat and lemon/ orange jellies here - yum.

(M: It has to be said that from my point of view, each of the towns looked far more appealing from afar, as they cascaded down the steep coastal hillsides, clinging on for dear life with roads and watercourses making their way down towards the ocean - roads winding and twisting, sometimes at angles better suited to donkeys, and watercourses heading more or less straight through, full of dangerous potential in rainy weather. Once we got closer it became difficult to see the attraction of an extended stay in these towns in the heat of summer. Aside from the rampant commercialism near the water's edge, most visitors would be staying well up the hill, making progress to the beach and back (tiny pebble strewn stretches) a pretty unappealing prospect.Certainly Giovanni didn't paint a very flattering picture. And of course you need to add in the prospect of bumper to bumper traffic, and busses trying to pass on narrow roads. Our drive was easy today, with a good flow of light traffic, and only the hazards of road design to contend with.)

Lunch was included in the tour and it was at a lovely terrace restaurant called Ristorante Calajanara at Conca dei Marini with spectacular coastal views. The five of us - a retired Italian couple (Gabrielle and Carla) from Lecce in the north, a 35 year old San Franciscan financial planner (Diana) who had been rather solitary until then, and who stumped us all when we were asked to guess her age. Most of us put it at mid 20s to start with. We sat at the one table and Giovanni took a break with some of the other drivers. We had a lovely relaxed meal, chatting together in a mix of English and Italian.

The town of Amalfi was a major stop, and it had a very impressive Cathedral of St Andrew to explore, instead of just a strip of shops. We walked up the many steps to the cathedral and checked out the adjoining complex with cloister, Basilica, museum and crypt. We spent a little time at the waterfront watching a solitary fisherman, and contemplating why anyone would park their BMW where the waves washed up under it. Then we were on the more direct return to Naples and Giovanni got us back to our accommodation before 5. In the summer it would have to either be a much longer day or we wouldn't have stopped so often.

Along the way, over the mountains rather than through the coastal tunnels, Giovanni pointed out the chestnuts that had fallen off the trees by the side of the road. I told him I'd never seen one raw so he stopped to jump out and collect one to show us. He had to use a cloth to pick it up as it is full of spikes. I've only ever seen them in the main towns cooking and being sold by street vendors. I don't like them. Giovanni told us that while chestnut trees are a very common crop here, they are not grown for the nuts, but rather for their wood, which is highly prized in pizza making as a good fuel which imparts a particular flavour.

Back in Naples, we had dinner out at a nearby pizzeria with another delightful waiter who went to a lot of trouble to find out if we wanted to order in English or Italian. He was also keen to ensure we had all we needed. I've decided I really like this town.