Tues 6th - Fri 9th May (Week 33)

Tues 6th - Checked out and got our minibus pickup at 9:30am. Tiny little 6-seater people-carrier with 2 Dutch girls who were also coming to Bromo. Nice to have quite a bit of space, but the bumpiest seats ever, and we got thrown out of our seats numerous times. Our driver was also a bit of a lunatic, overtaking 5 or 6 trucks at a time, usually on blind corners ! Some stunning scenery along the way - lots of lush lime green paddy fields, with the occasional volcano as a backdrop. We also passed through lots of cities on the 12hour journey, all very similar - big, dirty and lots of traffic. Its strange coming from somewhere as pristine and organised as Singapore, back to dirty, chaotic cities again. Had 3 stops in the 12 hours, finally arriving in Mt Bromo at 10pm. Very fresh and cool up in the mountain air - actually made a lovely change to the boiling cities, and nice to not be sweating for a change !

Wed 7th - We decided to have an extra day in Bromo to enjoy the scenery, whereas most other tourists arrive at night, do the sunrise tour, and leave by 9:30am. Despite telling the hotel we were not doing the sunrise tour today, we still got 2 wake up calls at 3:30am ! Amazing views from the hotel - right on the crater rim overlooking the vast expanse of flat plain with a smoking Bromo in the middle. Walked for 45mins up to a viewing platform, passing some beautiful crop fields with cabbage, spring onion etc and people doing everything by hand. The colours were just unreal - the sky was such a deep blue and the mountains and fields were deep green - really stunning. I do love mountains with the fresh crisp air and sharp colours. Really glad we took an extra day here to appreciate it. I've been feeling ill for the past 2 days, similar to how we were in Hspiaw, feverish, very weak, not able to eat and many trips to the bathroom. So the morning walk took it out of me and I had to have a long sleep in the afternoon whilst Brandon had a 3hour walk to Bromo and back. Gutted I wasn't able to go as well, but hopefully the weather will be as good tomorrow morning.

Thurs 8th - Up at 3:30am, put on our warm layers and got our jeep ride up to the viewpoint at 4am. Arrived just as dawn was breaking over the distance volcanoes and it made a stunning setting. We have been disappointed with all our sunrise trips whilst travelling, but this one was spectacular. Vibrant colours defining the silhouettes of the volcanoes, and as it gradually got lighter, you could make out the smaller volcanoes popping out of the mist. Left at 6am and drove down to Bromo. Walked the 1km across the black sand and up the steep steps to the craters' edge. It was pretty vast when you got up close and you couldn't see very far down due to the constant bellowing of sulphur clouds which made you gag with the smell if the wind blew it towards you ! Back in the hotel at 8:30, quick breakfast, then left at 9:30. Had a 45min wait in the tour office in Probolingo before changing buses to drive to Ijen. Another beautifully scenic drive of paddy fields and volcanoes, but the edge was slightly taken off by being hot and uncomfy for another 6 hours. Arrived into Ijen just after 6pm and it was already dark so didn't actually get to see any of the local area other than on the bus. Early dinner and bed at 8:30pm.

Fri 9th - Up at 3:30am, quick breakfast of bread and choc sprinkles (!) then left at 4am. Arrived at the base of Ijen volcano at 4:45am and started the ascent in the dark. As I still felt weak and zero energy, I found it pretty hard going, but was pleased to see I wasn't the only one struggling and stopping a lot ! Got to the top at 6am and looked down into the beautiful milky aqua-marine lake which is highly acidic and had sulphur fumes pouring out. We were originally going to start at 1am to be able to see the blue flames in the crater, but due to the volcanic activity in the area, we were not allowed to. Watched the miners slowly making their way up out of the crater carrying baskets of the yellow sulphur, weighing between 70-100kg !! Headed back down the volcano at 7am, and headed off at 8:30. The valley down from Ijen was beautiful - really verdant and lush with lots of ferns, tree ferns and moss - very like New Zealand. Arrived into the ferry port at 10am, bought tickets and got on the first ferry across to Bali. Reminded us of our other ferry crossings in French Polynesia, and same sort of scenery - towering green mountains and blue seas. Avoided the touts when we arrived and got on the local bus to Pemuteran on the North coast. Were taken aback that it appears you can also barter on the bus fare as well as everything else. This is all very well when you have a rough idea what it should be to start with, but you always feel you are being scammed, and spoils the experience. Arrived at the beautiful Kubuku Ecolodge and got an amazing room with my name spelt out in petals on the bed, as well as a stunning pool with mountains in the background. This is more like it - and just what we needed after 4 busy days.