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After we finally got out of the Maceio bus station we went to Aracaju, a city in the state of Sergipe, but this was only a fleeting visit as we had our eyes set on a beach called Praia do Forte in Bahia and we would not be deterred by little things like bus schedules. So (having started our journey in Maceio at 9am) we spent between 5pm and midnight same day abusing the generosity of an all you can eat sushi restaurant in Aracaju before getting two more buses, finally arriving at Praia do Forte about 8am the next day.
Praia do Forte is so called because it is the site of an old fort built by a once poor peasant cattle farmer who was for an unknown reason granted an enormous tract of land in the area by a Portuguese King back in the 1500's. He built a defensive fort at this location and began to impress influence on the region, and he was - strangely enough - loyal to the Portuguese crown. It's a beautiful beach with a nice town and there was some cool stuff to do.
We visited a turtle conservation NGO based there which runs projects all along the Brazilian coast to protect all kinds of turtles that lay their eggs on the beaches. We left even more in awe of these beautiful pre-historic creatures that can live to 200 years old than we were before. We then spent a day walking in 35 degree heat, first to the actual fort and then to a rainforest reserve where we sawwild monkeys and swam in a beautiful (but caiman infested) lake.
The next day we walked another 13k up beautiful deserted coastline to a place called Itamimbi, where there is an inlet river of sea water where bars and restaurants have set up with chairs in the water. It allowed us to indulge in an established (on a previous work away day) tradition of wallowing - sitting in the water for hooooooooours - whilst eating and drinking in the sun, a pleasant way to pass an afternoon!
We then went to the capital of Bahia state, Salvador. This fascinating city is all about a cultural fusion between Portuguese colonizers, indigenous Brazilians and descendents of African slaves - The Book says Salvador is the best example in the world of a place where displaced Africans have kept hold of their culture. Anyway, this fusion can be seen everywhere; architecture, food, people, shops but more than anything else in the music and dancing. Salvador - along with Olinda previously - has taught us a thing or two about rhythm, drumming and Brazilian flair in their Forro, Axe, Sangue, Samba and Salsa styles.
We went to a show in the Pelourinho, main old town district, and saw five or six different traditional dances with African influence - including some brilliant Capoeira - both of us left wondering why Rich didn't have a ridiculously toned six pack (and Michelle with a huge sheepish grin)!
The day before we were flying to Brasilia was a Tuesday night, and for some reason these are the biggest nights out in Salvador. Every week they have a sort of mini-Carnaval street party with loads of free music and drinking etc. We didn't want to be rude and joined in. We saw a performance in the street by a Brazilian artist called Geronimo, walked behind a drumming troupe and Michelle tried to keep up with the dance moves, saw some rock and a truly mindblowing DJ and classical pianist combo - the pianist was seemingly angry, energetic, and incredible. We drank way too much (the caipirinhas are soooo dangerous) and were horribly hungover for the morning flight to Brasilia.
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