M:

We didn't have the heart to turn down pho for breakfast again so started the day well fortified. (A: The pho was particularly good in fact, but once again it is frustrating that we don't think we can add the usual sprouts and basil due to the fact that they have been washed in water here.)

The process for today's sightseeing was similar to Saturday, except there were 6 of us going from the Xuan Mai. The bus was a bit late in leaving, but today's trip was only about 90 minutes - after which time we were still in the confines of Ho Chi Minh City, but outside the three sections still called Saigon. Today's trip was less scenic, with only a few rural passages. Mainly along busy roads lined by shops of every description, but few bigger than a corner store.

The Cu Chi Tunnels and their role in (literally) undermining the US-led campaign in the south are legendary. There are some great pictures here, even if the English descriptions are a bit hard to follow, and a description of the tourist experience here. Being a tourist here is a deal different to Italy where we both had some of the language. I feel rude speaking in English, but have no option. Most people in hospitality have enough to allow a transaction, but still ...

Our guide today was called Phuong. He had something of a sense of humour, and a personal stake in the history as his father had walked the Ho Chi Minh trail from north to south - a journey of 3 to 4 months on which many soldiers died.

The folks here have done a great job. You start with a historical North Vietnamese video, dubbed in English. You then move on to see a typical tunnel entrance, a B52 bomb crater, several of the traps devised by the Vietnamese (absolutely barbaric, but no worse than ours, I guess) and bunkers that have been reconstructed partially above ground instead of being 3m underground - as a gesture to big, soft tourists like us.

The next stop was a chance to fire some real guns for a dollar or 2 a bullet - M16s, AK47s, you name it. We opted not to. Still, there was something haunting about the sound of gunfire in the regrown jungle.

Then the tunnel. First we had the jumbo sized, enlarged tunnels that require you to walk in a fairly seriously stooped position. There is a hundred metre stretch with exits at 30 and 60. Anne and I exited at 30. I couldn't see the point if it was just more of the same. Even with the small lights on it was quite claustrophobic. Next was the real thing. I took this option. It required you to crawl, literally, and there were sudden dips and drops. The central stretch was unlit. You can see why the VC used experienced guides as they traversed kilometres of tunnels - even into the nearby US base!

When you look at yesterday's insight into the atrocities of war, and combine it wth the picture of absolute resolve on the part of the North Vietnamese and the Viet Cong in resisting America's (and her allies') imperial ambitions, it is no wonder we lost this particular shameful war. I don't have rose coloured glasses regarding the way in which the North fought, but at least it was in an attempt to get self determination in their own country. And then I think of Iraq and Afghanistan where we have followed the US willy nilly one more time into wars that seem remarkably similar despite the lack of jungle.

The bus trip back was uneventful. Back to Kim's for lunch and then we located the proper tailor and somehow managed to negotiate a fitting for each of us to buy a suit. First fitting tomorrow and delivery Thursday. Two cashmere suits, an extra pair of pants and two shirts for 380 dollars. Again - went through the bargaining motions. Fingers crossed.

Back to the hotel tired but happy and have spent the last few hours catching up on this blog- where we are now!