The Tarifa jet ferry has customs on board, so disembarking is a breeze into Morocco. Plus...the ferry is nearly empty. We note we are the only Americans, but there are some Westerners from Canada.

Out of the port there is the throng of guides as expected. I see two guys w/ signs held up "Welcome Mauros". One looks a bit rough w/ "Terminator" sunglasses. The second guy's appearance isnt much better, but next to him is a very well dressed Moroccan gentleman in a flamboyant royal-blue suit.   I realize the sign-holders are the drivers, but I'm more inclined to walk up to the guy in the suit. He introduces himself as Nezha's husband, Abdul, and says she isn't available, but will take us on the tour.   Good enough. I feel bad that the other guide did send someone but since he's not personally standing there...maybe a lesson in customer service. 

We jump in a large mini-bus and Abdul tells us he'll take us to Dar Nilam first. Oh...OK. We see huge flags everywhere and the first city square is full of Moroccans in traditional robes. It appears to be a demonstration but Abdul tells us the King is in town and its a special day. The girls eyes are popping! Jenny says she feels a little scared due to the women covered in full burkhas. This is great...a cultural immersion is just what I wanted for them! The drive is shorter than expected along the main boulevard lining the beach. We turn at a crumbling old Portuguese fort and the girls see their first camels roaming freely and herds of goats.  Abdul and the driver miss a modest sign for Dar Nilam and I get them to turn around.

We are greeted at the door by the proprietors...Rachel & Faty. They are a young couple who run the house. They have a well dressed doorman and the entry to the home is walled w/ a large gate. Rachel and Faty bring us through a very ornate entryway into a stunning parlor room. We exchange greetings and are served cold Mango/Peach nectar.   The girls & Lyn are pleased and immediately tour the home and are lead to our rooms. We dump our backpacks, I check on timing / menu plans and we head out to the minibus and our day w/ Abdul.

Abdul confirms we'll head to the outskirt of Tangiers first to see the countryside. In the hills we pass the homes of the Moroccan rich & famous. The Saudi King's home, the Moroccan King's summer home, Malcolm Forbes home. A huge motorcade heads towards us and ...it's the Moroccan King!! 20 Mercedes in succession with security and I'm amazed we are allowed to drive in opposite direction as we pass his car. We head out to see 3 sites:   1) Cape Spartel 2) Grottes d' Hercules 3) Beaches & camel rides.   Standard tourist stuff that everyone does, but Abdul allows us to stop anywhere and take our time. His narration is good and the girls are amused w/ some of his uses of Western expressions...."no way, Jose", "thats the fact, Jack", etc.    The countryside smells very fragrant...like incense. Abdul points out much of the flora/trees. It is very much pine/cactus and reminds us of some areas in Arizona.

Cape Spartel is the northermost point of Africa.   Nothing special except to say we went there. A few merchants and a restaurant. The girls are in refusal mode...they won't buy a Coke, bottle of water...anything. Think they are concerned for sanitation.   Abdul seems to like our Canon and takes pictures, but at Cape Spartel, I put him in the family shot.  

We wind our way down the mountainside to see a Moroccan beach town....(Asilah??). The beaches are very long & deep.  We visit with some Berber camel merchants. These people are the indigenous inhabitants of Morocco and dress differently than the Muslim/city people we'd seen. They are very friendly and encourage us to take their camels for a ride. Lyn begs off, but the girls and I run around the beach and really enjoy. I find one of the camels really likes me and get a sloppy kiss goodbye before we head back up the coast.

We come to the famed Grottes d' Hercules. Again....must-see in Tangiers. Its an ancient cave below some merchants/cafes dotting the coastline. The pounding of the ocean causes unique pocks/tidal pools. Deep in the cave we open up to a large series of rooms and see the natural rock formation in shape of Africa carved by the sea. Some divers are dangerously leaping off of ledges inside the cave to a very small pool 30 ft below. The girls dip their hands in a well with legend it brings good luck. We are shown centuries-old carvings/cutting mined from the cave for griststones used in olive/grain presses. I buy a DVC tape from a store near the The Mirage Hotel and we are headed back to Tangier. 

The entire time we feel unhurried and there are few if any other tourists. Abdul admits business is slow..particularly right now from Americans. Too bad as we are delighted with the experience and its different enough from Spain that Lyn and I are already glad we did this even before we've ventured in the heart of the city.